The Belgian invited Alain Gossuin to open the ball, this same model who opened her very first fashion show presented in Paris in 1991. This first look perfectly embodied the desire to Dries Van Noten to reflect on contemporary elegance, beyond what has been done until now. He chose to emphasize the sartorial production of double or single-breasted suits and coats, using silhouettes that were both structured and elongated. He plays with the different materials that he mixes and matches: organza tops and pants float in the air in transparent volumes, while certain fabrics bear witness to the passing of time. Pants, jackets, and tops feature patterns designed using the Japanese printing technique suminagashiwhich involves placing ink on water, which is transferred to and absorbed by the fabric.
Dries Van Noten spring-summer 2025
Photographed by Acielle / Style Du Monde
Dries Van Noten was also greatly inspired by the contemporary Belgian visual artist Edith Dekyndt, as he tells Vogue Business: “She works a lot with transparencies, uses a lot of materials that capture memories, worn fabrics,” he explains. For him, this collection is “elegant and relaxed… You have soft fabrics, combined with a little more sharpness.”
Dries Van Noten spring-summer 2025
Photographed by Acielle / Style Du Monde
Dries Van Noten spring-summer 2025
Photographed by Acielle / Style Du Monde
On the podium, Alain Gossuin was quickly joined by other star models and muses of Dries Van Notenlike Debra Shaw, Karen Elson, Joshua Thompson, Cole Mohr, Malgosia Bela, Clement Chabernaud, Kirsten Owen, Finn Collinsor Will Chalker, who all closed the parade together to the rhythm of applause and a general ovation. A great way to celebrate the designer’s career, and the more than 120 fashion shows he has presented. A moment rocked by emotion already anchored in the history of fashion, but also in our minds since, as said Dries Van Noten, “to create is to leave something that endures. What I feel about this moment is that it is not only mine, but ours, forever.”
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