On 12/31/2024, Swiss mountaineers Roger Schäli and Peter von Känel made the first ascent of the “Methadone” on the Sciora Dafora, also called Sciora di Fuori, in Switzerland. It is most likely a winter ascent of a summer ascent created in 1974 by D. Erba, G. Maresi and F. Pirola.
Swiss mountaineers Roger Schäli and Peter von Känel made the first ascent of the Methadonea mixed 800m ascent on the wild NNE face of Sciora Dafora (3169m), also called Sciora di Fuori, in the Bregaglia massif of the Swiss Alps.
The new route offers difficulty up to the M5 and is described as “a traditional route offering beautiful climbing with surprisingly moderate difficulty and good natural features for protection. » It was created on the last day of 2024 during a 15-hour round trip to and from the Capanna di Sciora refuge.
The two men were convinced that they were the first to climb this wild granite wall and “really surprised” cross an old post two lengths before the exit on the ridge. It is very likely that the duo largely followed the summer ascent established on August 3, 1974 by the Italians D. Erba, G. Maresi and F. Pirola, and repeated for the first time on July 24, 1977 by Franco Giacomelli and Renata Rossi. which established a variation on the lower part of the climb.
Commenting on their social media accounts after their climb, the climbers said “Impressive what they achieved back when the hardware wasn’t as good as it is today. » After reaching the extremely airy summit, the couple descended via the Scioretta Corridor; Ascended for the first time on 6/07/1892 by Anton von Rydzewski, Mansueto Barbaria and Christian Klucker, this line is no longer climbed in summer because it is too exposed to falling rocks.
Schäli had noticed that the strike line was in condition from the valley and, two days before the first ascent, he climbed the obvious corridor on the left with his climbing partner Luisa Fiammetta. As with Methadonethere are no records of previous winter ascents.
Swiss
