Wine and food weekend in Lyon

Wine and food weekend in Lyon | Valdyerres.com

Lyon, in the south of France, is proud to hold the title of “the gastronomic capital of France.” It has long been home to many great chefs, including the famous Mère Brazier, who ran a famous bistro and taught Paul Bocuse, the man who put nouvelle cuisine on the gastronomic map. Lyon has a unique type of restaurant: bouchons. Small, family-run bistros that serve traditional cuisine and provide a friendly atmosphere. There are thousands of restaurants, wine bars, grocery stores, and excellent markets. Wine expert Will Jones took a weekend tour of Lyon’s culinary talents…

Cakes and wine!

After a quick but inspiring stroll through the Saturday food market along the Saône, the first thing that caught our attention was a superb chocolate snail pastry offered by the Boulangerie du Palais in the historic old town. We then headed to nearby Antic Wines. He was voted best wine merchant in France. It took us thirty seconds, after crouching in this absolutely incredible cave, to understand how this title could have been awarded. Shelf after shelf, rack after rack, lined with treasures from legendary producers covering most vintages from the last fifty years (Huet Moelleux 1961, anyone?). I emerged relatively unscathed, holding bottles made by Stéphane Tissot and Claire Naudin. It’s a truly special place.

We then had lunch at the Michelin starred restaurant Prairial, which wasn’t very memorable. Apart from an interesting and seasonal mushroom dish, we weren’t very impressed. To be fair, it has fabulous reviews, so I guess we were just unlucky that day.

Red Cross

The afternoon was spent strolling through the unusual shops of Croix Rousse, the former silk workers’ district. Then we headed to Les Caves des Voyageurs, the most beautiful wine cellar in Lyon. It was closed. Our 2020 summer visit between lockdowns had its difficulties. We settled for the Vins des Vivants. This is the most beautiful location on the square side where we enjoyed a pleasant Crozes-Hermitage.

The day ended with a desperate scramble to find a place or venue that wasn’t full to eat. I asked for a table at Le Potager des Halles in my amateur French and was brusquely told that I was out of luck. However, the same waiter gave a completely opposite answer to my French partner! Who said French snobbery was dead?

Wine, oysters and chocolate

Sunday started off right with a breakfast of spectacular oysters from Utah Beach, accompanied by a glass of Muscadet at Les Halles Paul Bocuse, Lyon’s legendary food market. Les Halles is an unmissable visit with numerous stands run by MOFs (Meuilleur Ouvriers de France – title awarded to the best craftsmen in their trade). Their reputation extends well beyond Lyon, for example Sibilia for charcuterie or Mère Richard for cheese. I also managed to snag a bottle of Pierre Morey Bourgigne Blanc 2013 from Cave Spera.

Next, head to another Lyon institution, the Bernachon chocolate shop. It’s not a cheap deal but it’s irresistible. We found a spot by the river and devoured our haul in minutes. It’s the chocolate of the gods and well worth the price.

Dinner was at Café Comptoir Abel, the oldest bouchon in Lyon. Once you step inside, you realize that this is the quintessential French restaurant, with traditional Lyonnaise cuisine on the menu. Offal and butter are the order of the day. We feasted on foie gras, andouillette (sausages stuffed with offal) and sweetbreads, delighting in this delicacy.

Lyon is a perfect destination for foodies…

Will Jones has a WSET Level 3 Diploma in Wine and is currently studying at the WSET School in London to complete his Wine Diploma. A lover of wine and gastronomy, Will spends most of his vacations traveling around France in search of the best winemakers and chefs in the world or those who are still little-known. You can find him on Instagram at CotesduJones