Lens in the Nord department, a few kilometers south-east of Béthune and just north of Arras, was for three centuries an important production area for the coal industry. When production ceased at the end of the 20th century, Lens had a moment of dejection. Today this has certainly completely changed, however, parts of the coal mining industry have been preserved for posterity, serving as educational and cultural reminders of this once great industry which contributed so much to the French economy.
Slag classified by UNESCO
The 51 slag heaps are a spectacular sight that is part of a new artistic culture that has allowed the region to regenerate. They have even been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. UNESCO defines the region as an “organically evolved” cultural landscape, part of a list of “distinct geographical areas or properties that uniquely represent the combined work of nature and man.”
The coal slag piles are constantly monitored by specialist engineers. They are completely safe and accessible for climbing. I walked to the top of one and admired the stunning views of the surrounding countryside from the top. It was clear and you could see the Belgian coast in the distance. The artificial pitch is rough and grainy, making it easy to walk on. Entrance is free and it takes about an hour and a half to make the ascent and return.
Other vestiges of the mining era exist: mine shafts, workers’ houses and mining villages, an original cast iron elevator shaft. They are a powerful element and symbol of what has today become an imposing landscape design and tourist attraction.
The slag heaps are transformed by vegetation, trees and plants, even vines. One has become a dry ski slope.
You are not required to take a guided tour but they are offered at Base 11/19 in Loos-en-Gohelle.
Louvre Museum in Lens
Lens is also the base of an annex of the prestigious Louvre Museum in Paris. The glass and aluminum art gallery, very different from the Parisian museum, is a vast and imposing spectacle. It stands on land landscaped to represent former coal mining fields as an artistic statement. The Louvre-Lens museum regularly exhibits works from its parent company in Paris. Entrance to the museum is free. Read more about: Lens-Louvre Museum
The city of Lens and its surroundings
Come to the city for food and drink. There are plenty of friendly cafés. The art deco train station is also worth a visit. Built to resemble a steam train, it is a national heritage site.
Lens is close to many sites including Vimy Ridge, the Ring of Memory and Notre Dame de Lorette also known as the Ablain Saint-Nazaire French military cemetery.
