Forget Galopin on Place Sainte-Marthe, now make way for Ajar, a neo-bistro with finely crafted dishes.
A charming address has opened its doors on the equally sparkling Place Sainte-Marthenestled not far from the Saint-Martin canal, in place of an address that had won us over in the past, Le Galopin. Forget the former stronghold of chef Julien Simonnet, now place in Ajar.
Behind Ajar are hidden Ruben Curiel and Sophie Marie Larrouy who placed the young chefs in the kitchen Cassandre Beguin Billecocq and Camille Bacou. With the idea that “everything is better in a tortilla”, the former journalist now converted to catering has imagined a new kind of bistro, reinterpreting the tacos in a Parisian version.
This is how in this clean and bright placework of theAtelier HATHE corn flour tortillas from Mexico reveal their most beautiful assets, stuffing of ingredients selected as locally as possible. Marrow bones, rhubarb and celery; sardine, horseradish and granny apple; glazed eggplant, tahini sauce and kohlrabi pickles; THE unusual associations are at the party.
However, during our visit – just before the end of year holidays, it is a menu unique which was offered to us, consisting of two starters, a main course and a dessert. And what good ideas in this menu at an unbeatable price (30€!), starting with the two starters, one gougère very naughty at Mont d’Or garnished with sautéed mushrooms, and a scallop tartare of great delicacy, pimpé verbena mayonnaise.
Then comes an amazing stuffed guinea fowl and its string of chestnuts, arranged on a medallion of meltingly roasted celery root, then a pavlova with chestnut cream and kumquat, a little sparse but successful. At this price, we ask for more. We also fell in love with the spritz pickles (€12) made, as you will have understood, with pickle juice. A must-taste for those who do not wish to discover the selection of natural wines of the establishment.
In the evening, the à la carte dishes (€6-€18) become even more cheeky, like this venison shank marinated in binchotan, this chicken skin sundae (!) or this rocket sorbet.
We toast to Ajar twice rather than once!
This test was carried out as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please let us know in the comments.
