4 itineraries between land and sea (and three refreshment spots) to discover in Catalonia

Claude Droussent cycled in Spain and reveals four gravel routes to discover on the most beautiful dirt trails and greenways around Girona. In the hinterland of Girona to be exact. We have already mentioned it here: the cycling culture has taken over the city of Catalonia for around fifteen years like nowhere else.

Catalonia: gravel in Girona around the city that glorifies cycling

The climate is not unrelated, but it is not everything. Same for geology. The same goes for the local population. If Girona is great for gravel, it is also because the cycling culture has taken over the city of Catalonia over the past fifteen years like nowhere else.

Not far and so good

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It's only two and a half hours by train from Montpellier, six hours from Paris, a little over seven from Lille if you find the perfect connection. Girona offers on its doorstep, on all sides, a remarkable diversity of terrain. Splendors of small mountain, rural and seaside landscapes. You have the choice: forests, agricultural paths and very secondary roads. Greenways along the water, typical villages and heritage traces. If you need entertainment, head to the seaside resorts of the Costa Brava. HAS Gironawe don't get bored. Sun and light are often there. Gravel riding in Girona is a delightful experience.

January anti-depression plan

Just one desire at the start of 2025: escape winter, cycle gravel, get some sunshine, finally some light! Returning to Girona, a great idea. At the start of 2023, I was won over by a perfect first winter experience. A short week exploring the surroundings of the historic city of 100,000 inhabitants located between Barcelona and the French border.

I brought back four sublime gravel routes between 65 and 110 kilometers. With reasonable elevation differences, which do not involve the surrounding medium-sized mountains. One climbs to an altitude of 500 m in the Gavarres massif. It's in the south-east of the city, the peak of my little stay. The others barely deviate from the Ter and Onyar valleys. The two rivers (west-east axis for the first, south-north for the second) whose confluence has guided the development of Girona over the centuries.

Smooth exit

You can easily get out of the city via their greenways. Before discovering that of the old Carrilet railway, ride on superb forest and agricultural tracks beyond. All the way to the blue of the Mediterranean when you head due east: the Costa Brava is only about thirty kilometers from Girona. Many of these treasures are used by the gravel events of two major cycling events located here: the Traka in early May and the Sea Otter Europe in September.

Only one starting point

My four routes start from the Tourist Office, near the old Pont de Pierres. Note these colorful buildings on the banks of the Onyar. They give Girona the appearance of an old Italian city, the air of Florence. Before leaving and on the way back, each day, we also take advantage of the trendiest cycling addresses in the area – my three good tips below. Most were imagined by former Anglo-Saxon pro cyclists who made the Catalan city their base camp at the turn of the 2000s and spread this unique cycling atmosphere there. For our happiness as more modest pedalers: gravel routes and dream bike cafes, the perfect combo.

It's time to reveal my itineraries to you

The fullest of Banyoles

65 km – D+ 530 m – 70% off asphalt

Ideal route to gently begin a gravel stay in Girona. We leave the city along the Ter River before following agricultural paths worthy of the American Midwest from Medinya. Return via the superb Banyoles Lake, the largest in Catalonia (112 km2) and other dirt roads away from urban planning. For the Komoot track, it's here: La Banyoles de Droussent.

The most Angelic goes through El Angels my angel

96 km – D+ 1260 m – 70% off asphalt.

The (relative) difficulty of the route is concentrated in the first half of the route through the wooded massif of Gavarres. From the first hour, you will have to climb up to the El Angels belvedere, a sumptuous panorama of the Pyrenees. A little further into the massif, surprise with two (modest) fords to cross. Platja d'Aro, a seaside town on the Costa Brava, is worth for its ancient site of Pla de Palol and… its sea view terraces along the route. Peaceful return via the Carrilet greenway and its typical old stations. For the Komoot track it's this way: Ride like an angel, like Droussent.

The most Western

75 km -D+ 620 m – 60% off asphalt

The greenways of Carrilet and the banks of the Onyar explore sublime Catalan rurality to the south of Girona. Then move on to the forest around the Crosa volcano and its ocher earth tracks, the banks of the Ter from Bescano, finally the first foothills of the Rocacorba massif. The latter, a playground for local truck drivers, deserves (another) asphalt experience in itself. The trace to head west.

The flattest

107 km – D+ 540 m – 70% off asphalt

This time we leave Girona by the east and the banks of the Ter, before the ocher-colored agricultural tracks which lead to Colomers. Then La Taillada d'Emporda, the Mediterranean, finally to L'Escala and its beach. We climb the limestone massif of Montgri, a promontory 150 m above the sea, initially by asphalt then a stony track. Descent (and fantastic views) via the port of L'Estartit, then return via Toroella de Montgri, its medieval castle and plain paths which lead back to the banks of the Ter. The trace of the flat, quite relative.

My three favorite cycle-gourmet addresses in the city center of Girona:

Mafia Express

For a coffee (of choice) and a little treat before leaving, created by the ex-Canadian pro, Christian Meier, also founder in town, with his wife Amber, of La Fabrica and The Service Course. The website: Espresso Mafia.

Federal Café

For a solid breakfast. Created by former Australian trucker Rory Sutherland, it feels like home. For more information, here: https://federalcafe.es

Out of Category

For dinner after a great day of cycling, the Hors Categorie restaurant is unclassifiable. Admire its decor with vintage accents, bicycles and jerseys from the 1990s.