Ski touring in Switzerland, objective 4000 meters!

April 2024. The appointment was made a few months ago to set off on skis to attack a 4,000 « facile », the Bishorn (4,153 m), located in Valais, Switzerland. The challenge? Two thousand five hundred meters of altitude difference to climb in two days. “Nothing technically complicated”, assures Pascal Zufferey, guide in the Val d’Anniviers, with whom we spoke to prepare the ascent. But two days before, “Pasco” alerted us to difficult weather conditions which would force us to postpone the departure. So here we are a day earlier in this discreet and charming valley, nestled between the behemoths of Verbier, Crans-Montana and Zermatt. We understand why the adventurer-writer Ella Maillart made it her rear base. Zinal is the bus terminal as well as one of the gateways to the 4,000 in the canton (Valais has around forty).

Sheltered in a glacial cave

During the wait, the snow continued to fall. Pasco has made his decision: “We have to cancel the Bishorn, the approach in bad weather is too risky but I have a plan B.” It’s difficult to hide our disappointment, but safety takes precedence and we must trust the one who knows. A lull allows us to leave, towards the Mountet cabin (2886 meters), located at the bottom of the valley. After an hour of progress, Pascal shows a natural trace, 200 meters above us, which corresponds to the height of the glacier a century ago. Global warming is very obvious! We reach the “new” end of the glacier an hour later. The snow has started to fall again and we stop for shelter in a glacial cave, formed only for one winter, which will transform into a torrent of water on sunny days, a few weeks later. A final steep climb and the refuge is in sight. This cabin is made of granite stone, with white and red shutters. On the ground floor, a single living room with open kitchen and a large stove around which everyone dries their things. Upstairs, half a dozen dormitories but no bathroom. Other skiers flock; they too had to change their itineraries. The atmosphere is very friendly. Everyone discusses their experiences around a dinner served on several tables of 6-8 people. Our departure is scheduled for 7 a.m. the next day.

We take a handful of snow to brush our teeth and wash our face. The sky is incredibly open, a beautiful pinkish-blue hue. It’s –15°C! Pasco targets a pass, far on the opposite slope. Col Durand (3,440 meters) is our objective, after a nice climb to the top of the glacier. We have to put on harnesses if we need to rope up for crevassed passages. It will not be necessary, but Pasco fears the change in the forecast weather. We come across a group coming back down from the pass and suggest we repack the seal skins here. Barely 30 meters above, the wind blows at more than 80 km/h. The cold is getting to us and we have to quickly put on one or even two layers of clothing… The field of powder snow is not long in coming… What jubilation then to evolve in the middle of this immaculate whiteness! Two hours will be enough to reach Zinal. Disappointed ? Honestly, not really! The strong emotions and the discussions with the guide were more than informative to better understand the laws of the mountains.

GET INQUIRED

Val d’Anniviers tourist office (Valdanniviers.ch ).

GO THERE

By TGV Lyria (Sncf-connect.com ) to Lausanne, then with an SBB train (Sbb.ch ) towards Sierre and, finally, by post bus (Postauto.ch ), count €200 for a round trip.

STAY

300 m from the Grimentz-Zinal ski lifts, at the Le Besso hotel (Le-besso.ch ). From €144 per double room. Night at the Mountet cabin (Cas-diablerets.ch )€100 half-board.

EXPERIMENT

Essential usage tips:

• Never leave alone, but always accompanied by a professional from the Anniviers Mountain Guides Office (00.41.78.965.71.20).
• Prefer spring to benefit from a stable snow cover.
• You must have a safety kit (DVA beacon, shovel and probe).
• Download a “good” weather application (Météo Blue).
• Dress in layers, so you can adapt to changes in temperature, adding or removing clothing quickly.