Male fashion week, which ends this Sunday, January 26 in Paris celebrated through the fall-winter 2025-26 collections of 68 houses the return to a certain form of elegance and the search for comfort, all tinted political claims.
“Neo-Dandy”
“There is a desire to return to a form of elegance. A lot of marks have pushed this figure of neo-Dandy a little. We want to recreate this kind of man who wants to dress and who wants to dress well “”Decrypt for AFP Adrien Communne, head of fashion section for the GQ France magazine.
The costume is everywhere: in “mix and match” And very full in Ami, in a style that is reminiscent of that of English students from Cambridge, in velvet at Hermès, with inspirations from the 1970s at Amiri and Latinos at Willy Chavarria or strict at Egonlab.
The master in the matter remains Kim Jones, who presented in Dior Homme a very graphic and refined collection, with costumes inspired by the archives of Mr. Dior which lengthen the silhouette.
At Louis Vuitton, Pharrell Williams and Nigo also proposed a collection mixing the codes of streetwear that are dear to those of dandyism, including costume sets associated with bombers, leather jackets or Teddy jackets.
Comfort again and again
“Faced with this evolution of the costume, there are still a lot of very comfortable things”underlines Adrien Communier. Between large clothes and soft materials, like Yohji Yamamoto which presented a series of large quilted jackets with pants, there are “as a desire to get on.” insists the specialist.
The “layering” (Superposition of several layers, editor’s note) is also still in order, whether at Yamamoto, Superkid, Hermès, Kolor or even aurae, which goes so far as to superimpose its mesh dresses on wool sweaters with XXL sleeves.
At 3.Paradis, the Frenchman Emeric Tchatchoua pushed comfort to the extreme with cut down jackets as in duvets and pillows.
The pants are tightening
If the pants are still largely ample and fluid with still many Bermudas Baggy who illustrate the revival of the 2000s, the pants are tightening and gradually shorten, as with Dior.
-“In my opinion, we come back to something that will be strongly inspired by the 2010s”, Widely dominated by Slim pants, explains Adrien Communier.
Color touches
Winter season obliges, the collections have largely available in a palette of dark colors, always with brown, lots of khaki, taupe but also beige or cream.
A few colored touches have nevertheless emerged: Dior powder pink to candy pink of vuitton and kenzo, red, blue and yellow at Bluemarble or yellow at AMI.
Political parades
The news was also invited on the podiums. For his first parade in Paris, the Californian Willy Chavarria distinguished himself with a colorful and politicized parade, enamelled with references to the film Emilia Perezcarried by a transgender actress and in pole position for the Oscars, and to the pro-LGBT speech of the bishop of Washington against American president Donald Trump.
The fashion environment has “fear” From the latter and does not dare stand up against him for fear of commercial reprisals, the Belgian creator Walter Van Beirendonck said before the press after his parade. He presented a futuristic show with models with jackets wearing badges “peace, not war” on the song Give Peace a Chance de John Lennon et yoko ono. “It’s horrible what’s going on in the world right now”, deplored the 67 -year -old Belgian, believing that there was “Too many wars, too far right “.
