Born June 9, 1951 in Saône-et-Loire, Jean-Pierre Saunier was not at ease at school. Looking for an apprenticeship, he was taken to Lameloise, a real institution near his home, one star at the time and three now. “He could have become a hairdresser. But he left to find a boss on Monday, and the hairdressers are closed,” says Gauthier Pajona, former culinary columnist on France Bleu Auxerre and great friend of the cook.
Beginnings in palaces
With his CAP in hand, Jean-Pierre Saunier joined prestigious establishments. Le Fouquet’s in Paris, the Royal in Évian, the palaces of Monaco… But his wife Marie-Paule, who died in 2022, “didn’t like it there”, he confided in our columns on October 5, 2023. Return to Saône- et-Loire, where he bought his first business, the Auberge Bressane, in Serley.
It was during a walk a few years later that the Saunier couple discovered Auxerre, in 1978. A crush, and an opportunity on rue du Pont, where L’Aspérule is located today. Jean-Pierre Saunier opens La Marmite. Success was immediate for this traditional cuisine restaurant.
Then came the great era of Maxime, on the quays, which he took over in the mid-1980s and until the dawn of the year 2000. A lobster tank, a rotisserie, a pastry chef… A large table , where we received both the European football elite and politicians: the two Jean-Pierres, Saunier and Soisson, were two great friends.
The cook will return to rue du Pont to finish his career. He created the Rendez-Vous, a family affair. “A little Lyon bourguignon bourguignon, with magnificent eggs in meurette, parsley ham, snails, crispy calf’s trotters, Burgundian-style beef cheek… Classic, old-fashioned cuisine,” lists Gauthier Pajona.
“One of the greats in Auxerre”
In 2023, after more than 55 years behind the stove, Jean-Pierre Saunier retires. “He was someone who had a joke, very kind, interesting and who said things. One of the big ones in Auxerre,” summarizes Julien Bedu, who takes over the place with Thomas Poirier in November 2023, and names the place Le Sarment.
Since his death, many Auxerre residents have paid tribute to him on social networks. “He was highly esteemed,” confirms his culinary columnist friend:
“He had his character, as sharp as his knives. But he was endearing, treating the sweeper and the director with the same respect. He loved his customers and his customers loved him. »
With tears in his voice, Gauthier Pajona paints the portrait of a man who success has not transformed. “Every day, he went to get his newspaper at the tobacco shop, Le Jacam. Together, we went for drinks at Dolet. His favorite dish was roast pork with shellfish gratin! He sent a block of foie gras to his widowed customers at Christmas. He was a good man. »
Died Sunday January 5, 2025, the chef leaves behind his two daughters, Claire and Ève, and his grandchildren. His funeral will take place on Wednesday January 15 at 10 a.m. in the Saint-Pierre church in Auxerre. In the heart of his neighborhood, where Jean-Pierre Saunier, who had the keys, often went to meditate.
