Every year since 2012, except during pandemics, I spend the last week of June with about 20 colleagues (and friends) from across Canada at the National Wine Awards of Canada. For each of us, this annual competition – the largest dedicated to Canadian wines – is a unique opportunity to take the pulse of our vast and beautiful vineyards. On the menu: over 1,800 samples and five very busy, but truly exciting, days of tasting!
Twelve years ago, ice wines were still very popular, and it was not uncommon to taste close to fifty of them. This year, in a sign that the category has run out of steam, I didn’t taste any! Sparkling wines, on the other hand, are all the rage, and new vintages are emerging from coast to coast. The popular Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Riesling and Pinot Gris grapes have already made their home in every wine-producing province—including Nova Scotia and Quebec. Other lesser-known but equally promising varieties, such as Gamay, Cabernet Franc and Malbec, continue to surprise, gain ground and conquer the palates of wine lovers here and abroad.
Here are five vintages and as many grape varieties to start exploring what is fermenting in our neighboring countries. Cheers!
Cabernet franc, Tawse, Cabernet Franc 2020, Grower’s Blend, Niagara Peninsula
PHOTO TAKEN FROM THE SAQ SITE
Canada 13,5 % | ★★★★ | $$1/2 | 30,25 $
Code SAQ : 14903534
This Cabernet Franc reflects both the generous nature of the 2020 vintage in Niagara and the immense talent of Paul Pender, winemaker at Tawse until his passing in February 2022. The ripeness of the fruit is evident from the first nose, where the sometimes vegetal character of the grape is conspicuous by its absence, and is confirmed on the palate: round and sewn with velvety tannins. An elegant wine, surprisingly long and complex for the price, and an excellent introduction to one of the most promising grapes in the Niagara vineyard. Drink now and over the next 3-5 years.
Riesling, Cave Spring, Dry Riesling 2022, Niagara Peninsula
PHOTO TAKEN FROM THE SAQ WEBSITE
Canada 12,0 % | ★★1/2 | $1/2 | 17,60 $
Code SAQ : 14327039
Riesling produces excellent white wines across the country, from the Similkameen Valley and the northern Okanagan Valley of British Columbia to the Annapolis Valley , in Nova Scotia. Although it offers a rather modest expression of this great grape variety of Germanic origin, this cuvée from Cave Spring, a historic estate on the Niagara Peninsula, is no less easy to love. A good balance between fruity roundness and fresh, crunchy acidity. A simple and delicious pleasure with salads and other seasonal vegetable dishes.
Gamay, Malivoire, Farmstead Gamay 2021, Niagara Peninsula
PHOTO TAKEN FROM THE SAQ SITE
Canada 12,0 % | ★★★1/2 | $$ | 23,55 $
Code SAQ : 11140498
Malivoire is one of the first estates to openly focus on this emblematic Beaujolais grape variety. Unsurprisingly, its oenologist, Shiraz Mottiar, is a Canadian authority on the subject. The result of a very cool and rainy vintage in Niagara, its 2021 Farmstead cuvée shows the Gamay in a crisper light, with a profusion of tangy red berry flavors and a delicate peppery finish. A thirst-quenching red wine, juicy, lively and surprisingly easy to drink on a hot summer day. To best appreciate it, serve it around 15 °C – give or take 30 minutes in the fridge – and serve it with grilled meats.
Pinot gris, Mission Hill Family Estate Pinot Gris Reserve 2022
PHOTO TAKEN FROM THE SAQ SITE
Canada 13,9 % | ★★★ | $$1/2 | 27,10 $
Code SAQ : 12545008
This spectacular West Kelowna estate in the centre of Okanagan Lake is owned by billionaire Anthony von Mandl, who also owns Cedar Creek, Check Mate, Martin’s Lane and Road 13. The estate’s Reserve Pinot Gris is a bit shy on the nose, but after a few minutes of aeration, it reveals lovely notes of peach, pear and tropical fruit. The palate is fairly full and vinous, but is supported by fresh acidity that highlights concentrated flavours of ripe, sun-kissed yellow fruit.
Chardonnay, Château des Charmes, Unoaked Chardonnay 2019, Niagara Peninsula
PHOTO TAKEN FROM THE SAQ WEBSITE
Canada 12,0 % | ★★1/2 | $1/2 | 15,15 $
Code SAQ : 13796124
This sprawling Niagara-on-the-Lake property was purchased last week by a group of Canadian investors. We’ll have to wait a few vintages to see how production evolves. In the meantime, fans of mature, slightly evolved white wines will want to get their hands on the last bottles of this 2019 chardonnay, which is priced reasonably. Dry, unoaked, and full enough to pair with white fish with lemon and capers.
★ Correct
★★ Bon
★★★ Very good
★★★★ Excellent
★★★★★ Exceptional
More stars than dollars: well worth the price.
As many stars as dollars: worth the price.
Fewer stars than dollars: wine is expensive.
