Until 2022, a brewery opened every month in Brittany. Today, more of them are closing than opening. The reason: a drop in consumption and rising costs. The prices of cereals, energy and glass have soared. Breton brewers are counting on a good summer to recover their health.
In his previous life, Thomas Lefèbvre was a researcher in animal nutrition. Today, he is still looking, in his brewery in Ville Porte Amour. New recipes for beers, oats, hay, malt, hops… It brings forgotten beers up to date. He produces 1,000 liters of beer per month and he doesn’t count his time or his money.
As soon as he makes a little profit, he reinvests in equipment. But in his barn, too many boxes accumulate, full of beer bottles just waiting to be filled. Much more than last year.
Thomas Lefèbvre explains this situation by stronger competition. Since he set up shop five years ago, six other brewers have moved within 30km of his home: “a fad” he says. So he hangs on. Another handicapping phenomenon this year, this disastrous weather which has not encouraged the consumption of beers.
Youenn Pibot is a brewer at La Fréheloise in Fréhel. He is also a regional delegate of the SNBI. He explains that tourism professionals have suffered a 20% drop in attendance: “This is approximately the drop in sales that we suffered” he said.
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In his workshop, Youenn Pibot places barrels and barnums. They were used for a demonstration last weekend. These are the types of events that local brewers would like to conquer more of. A few kilometers away, the Art Rock festival in Saint-Brieuc. No local beer for this 2024 edition, only Grimbergen, produced and marketed by Alken-Maes and Brasseries Kronenbourg.
This is also the hope of Jean-Baptiste Glais, manager of the Sainte-Colombe brewery in Corps-Nuds. The brewery has 10 employees and produces 10,000 hectoliters per year. He too has seen his sales slow down, but remains on an increase compared to past years: his brewery has more customers, but they place smaller orders. The financial impact on the company, which has existed for almost 30 years, therefore remains minimal.
We see that it is slowing down but we still have shares to take from manufacturers
Jean-Baptiste GlaisManager of the Sainte-Colombe Brewery
And the manager of the Sainte-Colombe brewery is banking on a return to rapid growth, in particular because the microbrewers have their menu up to date, because today, 16 manufacturers make 90% of beer sales in France.
This drop in sales is also explained by a drop in purchasing power, and craft beer costs more than industrial beer, twice as much on average.
At Christmas, we saw people buying 33cl bottles and no longer 75cl as was the case before. Beer is a leisure product, not a basic necessity
Thomas LefebvreBrasserie Ville Porte Amour
To the increase, a fall in sales, was added an increase in costs: cereals, energy and glass, everything has increased, say all these professionals.
Glass prices have increased by 60%
Youenn PivotSNBI Regional Delegate
A lot of grain came from Ukraine, a major supplier of glass, too. The union, the SNBI, which has 850 members, has also been proposing for some time a central purchasing body to reduce the cost of raw materials.
Youenn Pibot explains that the sector is becoming more professional because of this temporary crisis. Some brewers are joining forces to reduce costs. Others change models. This is the case of Corentin Le Tallec. He set up the Louarn brewery in Rennes with a friend in 2018. It was liquidated. This time, he goes back to Montfort-sur-Meu, with two Rennes bar owners. For him, the fact of joining forces with two bar owners “gave him a foundation”, he was able to reinvest in a building and in equipment.
30% of the beers will be sold in both bars and both owners will be sure to serve quality beer.
Corentin Le TallecBrasserie Louarn
The new Louarn brewery should open this summer.
The brewers we met are now waiting for the good weather, with sunshine and beers on the terrace… In moderation. For Youenn Pibot, the sector still has a card to play, but “The golden age of breweries lasted 10 years and it’s over” he said.
