Rue de la Bourse has just taken on an electrical charge that we didn’t expect in a traditional neighborhood, where we still come across people in ties. Brume does not claim any genealogical reference with the famous Lyon fogs which have disappeared, except in hookah bars. The name was just pretty, sweet and memorable. It in no way defines the cuisine which would rather evoke a beautiful summer storm on a clear day.
The kitchen is run by particle accelerator Rémy Havetz, also chef and owner of the excellent Sapnà (next to La Martinière). The festive, nocturnal part is run by Thibault and Max of Café Court (rue de la Monnaie). We didn’t try it, but according to the owners, the lower the light (around 10 p.m.), the more the atmosphere heats up. In the daytime version, we tried all the dishes with the voracious rake of the taste of discovery (table of four, including two ogres).
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The starter-main course-dessert hierarchy had its culinary 4th of August, as is increasingly the case in contemporary restaurants. The dishes are to be shared (or not, depending on the degree of brotherhood between guests). It must be admitted that between raw tuna, cucumber water, burnt tomato (candied almost to the point of caramel) and tartare, tamarind sauce, etc., we could not immediately tell the difference aesthetically.
The beautiful ceramics, the policy of cutting vegetables, the little touches, the diversity of ingredients mean that the dishes all tend to resemble the same family invited to a parade of Franco-Asian models. In this case, it’s called having style.
Holidays in Asia
When tasting, all the tastes explode in supernovae in different directions. There is commitment, as they say in rugby, and even a radicalism in the form of a fountain of youth. Each dish is new, expressionist.
We discovered that the herb salad that served as the dish’s afro hairstyle matched our order of smashed potatoes. The charlottes of Drôme play in the back of the court with some kimchi (Korean fermented cabbage), a sauce okonomiyaki and barbecue sauce.
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Trout eggs and mustard seed pickles hide the beef tartare that is clearly back from a vacation in Asia. We appreciated, while the idea was slightly counter-intuitive, the combination of raw tuna, cucumber, coriander and strawberry.
In fact, the dishes intrude into the conversations with a bang, so talkative are they. Right down to the desserts (Thai vacherin and strawberries, and chocolate, seaweed, chartreuse) benefiting from Rémy’s past as a pastry chef.
Haze. 45 rue de la Bourse, Lyon 2e. 04 78 71 98 31. Closed Sunday and Monday.
Our opinion : 4/4
Prices. Daily special (lunch): €19. Main courses: from €11 (fried wonton-eggplant) to €38 (sirloin steak with teriyaki). Desserts: €10. Wines by the glass: from €4.
NB: the chef is a passionate collector of chartreuse. You can enjoy it by the glass on the floor below. But, at 3 p.m.: fall into the abyss. We were told it was too late for the digestives. Which allowed us to rediscover the old-fashioned charms of its neighbor, the Cintra…
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