La Taula, restaurant in Périgueux – the beautiful “taula” of the Maurence | Gilles Pudlowski’s blog

La Taula, restaurant in Périgueux – the beautiful “taula” of the Maurence | Gilles Pudlowski’s blog
La Taula, restaurant in Périgueux – the beautiful “taula” of the Maurence | Gilles Pudlowski’s blog

Julie and Christine Maurince © GP

Right behind Saint-Front Cathedral, a monumental Roman-Byzantine building, the Taula (“the table” in Occitan) is striking for its discretion and modesty. It is the small stone and wood residence of Christine Maurence, present there for two decades, relayed in the dining room by her daughter Julie, culinary stylist in her preserved times. A Périgord mother born in Paris (she once ran the Chateaubriand on rue de Tocqueville in the 17th), Christine took up the tradition instilled by her father, a native of Périgueux, who created the Ferme du Périgord on rue des Fossés Saint-Marcel in the 5th.

Blayais asparagus and truffled foie gras © GP

This new wave Périgord mother who lacks neither ideas nor character tells the local terroir with freshness and subtlety. Examples of his manner? The pretty asparagus from Blayais with truffled foie gras, duck foie gras with hypocras with fig and beetroot compote, pressed lentils with duck foie gras, salmon trout fillet with sorrel, kidney of veal cooked whole with mustard seeds with fresh chanterelles, homemade duck leg confit with its thin potato pancake.

Veal kidney, mustard seeds, chanterelles © GP

We add the royal profiterole, the strawberry pavlova, the rum baba and its lemon cream, the frozen nougat with walnuts, or the fresh strawberry soup (from Périgord AOP) with its fromage blanc sorbet and, as a fun accompaniment, the red from Château Teraz in IGP from Périgord which flows in the mouth like velvet. Well thought out menus.

Strawberry soup and fromage blanc sorbet © GP

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