1er: a Sunday lunch at Tout- | Gilles Pudlowski’s blog

Service you wine © GP

A Sunday lunch at Tout-? Definitely a party! The house that we discovered – with delight – when it opened has been broken down. Its view of Paris is always breathtaking, whatever the weather. The colorful frame, signed Peter Marino, continues to have its chic and shocking effect and if the comfort of the red leather benches like the polychrome ergonomic seats, is more than ever, the charm. The service is just fine, under the direction of the always mischievous Guillaume Bertauld, playing complicity and naturalness.

Hors d’oeuvre © GP

As for the cuisine, under the leadership of William Béquin and overseen by the great Arnaud Donckèle, who obtained a star – deserved! -, she successfully gives in the light tradition and sharing. Some examples? These fine and light starters, tasty and fresh, pretty to look at and exquisite to tasty, which we bite into and taste with pleasure. : haddock watercress and trout eggs, barigoule artichokes with lemon sauce, octopus salad, poached egg and mushrooms, Saint Pierre gravlax rubbed with pink peppercorns, flame-burnt mackerel with herbaceous escabeche jelly or even thinly sliced ​​vegetables infused with coriander, with grapefruit vinaigrette and artichoke sorbet.

Barigoule artichoke and parmesan © GP

The main courses take up the great classics of French cuisine, without too much embellishment or fuss, such as the grilled entrecôte with béarnaise sauce (finely cut, splendid grilled taste, extra tender meat direct from the Boucheries NIvernaises), the mignon of veal and its blanquette sauce, the can with its vegetable casserole, duck juice and passion fruit. And it is accompanied by very pretty things, which we place in the center of the table, like the mashed potatoes in brown butter with capers and mini-croutons, without forgetting the range of vegetables with creamy lovage.

Entrecôte Béarnaise © GP

The sweets, also to share, signed by the expert Maxime Frédéric who knows how to make simple majesty, seduce without forcing. So, with the lemon tart, the vanilla ice cream, the chocolate mousse – very chocolatey… to damn a saint! – the honey-roasted pear and its raw vanilla cream, the French toast and its cream cheese whipped cream, finally its mini gourmet vanilla yogurt. A tip of the hat, finally, to the superb choice of wines by the glass such as the raw champagne Veuve Clicquot with its pretty toasted nose, the Saint-Joseph 2020 from Stéphane Montez or the rich Pauillac Lacoste-Borie 2018 second wine from Grand Puy La Coste from the Borie family. Festive wines for a Sunday feast of choice!

Desserts © GP

All-Paris at Cheval Blanc Paris

Carte : 105-195 €
Schedules : 7h-1h
Weekly closing. : Open every day
Nearby metro(s): Pont Neuf, Louvre – Rivoli
Site: www.letoutparis.fr

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