Artistic director of the Valentino house since April, Alessandro Michele unveiled this Monday, June 17, a pre-collection composed of 171 looks for the Milanese label. Known for his exuberant, colorful and mystical style, the Italian designer persists and imposes, more than ever, his fashion vision. Analysis.
Alessandro Michele, who took the reins of Valentino’s creative department only two months ago, unveiled his first silhouettes this Monday, June 17. Between fusion of codes and own identity, how does Michele infuse his DNA into Valentino?
Master in the art of musical chairs, the fashion world never stops searching for itself through the vision of its essential artistic directors. Reflecting both the demands of a market in constant need of novelty and the desire of houses to reinvent themselves, artistic directors then become interchangeable and sometimes seem to disappear under the pressure placed on them.
If some big names like Karl Lagerfeld, Hedi Slimaneor jean paul Gaultier are always associated, in the collective imagination, with labels and a certain idea of style, few are those who manage to embody a true vision and their own DNA.
Recently, it was the charismatic Alessandro Michele, who, after having elevated the label to the rank of an ultra-popular brand Guccipacked her bags to join the fashion house Valentino last April. A visionary, he quickly imposed his mark, through a first (surprise) cruise collection for spring 2025. On the program for this pre-collection, unveiled this morning of June 17 and made up of 171 looks, a precisely measured takeover of what made it successful Gucci.
Called “Avant Les Débuts”, this first collection since the departure of Pierpaolo Piccioli is an explosion of colorful patterns and bold prints. A fan of kitsch, Alessandro Michele here reinterprets classic costumes which he enhances with offbeat accessories and baroque touches.
If we immediately recognize the Michele touch, we will however note a certain sophistication specific to Valentino, both in the choice of certain colors and in the cuts, which are sharper and more linear.
Here no bright monochrome pink, Pierpaolo Piccioli’s signature color, but lighter shades and daring combinations. Indeed, Michele wouldn’t be Michele without her use of prints, colorful patterns and luxurious 70s-inspired textures.
A fan of maximalism, Michele also focuses on generous ornamentation. Indeed, here as at Gucci, the accumulation of jewelry is omnipresent and adds a theatrical dimension to the silhouettes.
After seven flamboyant years at Gucci, the Italian designer wasted no time in imbuing Valentino with his unique style. In just two months, Michele unveiled a preliminary collection that not only sets the tone, but also showcases the iconic elements of her aesthetic.
A clever fusion certainly, but which will nevertheless quickly have to become more radical and more significant, in order not to offer “déjà vu” looks or worse, a pale copy of a signature style which has had its heyday.
