Comfort | A taste of nostalgia

Before Chuck Hughes had kids, his refrigerator held a few jars of hot sauce and the pizza delivery guy was his best friend. The arrival of Charles and Henri changed everything. The star chef is now publishing Home cookingcontaining his favorite recipes for feeding the family and entertaining friends. We met him in his beautiful semi-detached house in Outremont.


Published at 11:00 a.m.

On a chilly fall Thursday morning, Chuck welcomes us to his home with a carafe of fresh coffee, croissants and a freshly baked apple galette. On the marbled counter, the ingredients await the execution of a second pancake. Cooking always looks so simple when done by a pro.

It must be said that the television star is a beast at setting things up, an organizational ace. There is no secret, according to him. Preparation is the key to success, both in restaurants and at home. As proof, he shows me the pot of raw rice seasoned in advance in the fridge which is just waiting to be cooked and tells me about the broccoli which he will cut into florets in advance to save time at dinner time.

My editor asked me for practical tips. I gave him those. She replied: “But no one does that!” ME, I do that! There is no secret, if you want to be effective!

Chuck Hughes

Luckily, comforting recipes are rarely the most complicated to execute. Several of those published in Home cooking fall into this category, whether soups and stews, pasta or an apple galette.

“Later, I would like to publish a book of even simpler recipes, with my children,” says the man who also dreams of opening a restaurant with them, one day. It’s so important to learn how to cook. It follows you all your life. You’ll make better choices at the grocery store. You will be able to feed yourself and your friends and your family. »

PHOTO MARTIN CHAMBERLAND, THE PRESS

Home cookingChuck Hugues’ new cookbook

Cooking is everything

As a teenager, Chuck Hughes didn’t think he would make a successful career out of it. “I wanted to work in marketing, in advertising. That appealed to me more, but all signs pointed to the kitchen. »

At the brunches organized by his mother, herself very talented in the kitchen, the young chef ran omelette bars and crepe bars. “My mother trained me, in service, in the kitchen, in presentation. We also went to restaurants, La Moulerie, Chez Better, Laurier BBQ, Piment rouge, Da Pizzartaro and La Crêperie bretonne in Saint-Sauveur. We were always discovering new ones. »

“She supported me on the restaurant path at a time when it was not popular at all. At 21 I had an illegal caterer for music shows,” recalls the man who has always remained close to the music industry, among other things by being head of the high-end Osheaga “cafeteria” (Artist World) for several years. It was under David McMillan, at the now defunct Globe, that it took off.

“Before, restaurant kitchens were filled with a lot of people who just had no other options. It was really rough. But I just couldn’t believe it was a job. It was my life. I was given a day off after 50 days of work in a row and I didn’t even want it, I still came home without punching! Today people have a more dynamic pace of life. »

For many years, catering has been just one aspect of the career of the friendly star chef known in several markets around the world thanks to his television shows, Chuck’s Day Off, At loggerheads, Chuck and Danny’s Roadtripetc.

“I had the chance to do shows that aired 52 weeks out of 52. You really enter people’s lives that way. I have quite a following in English Canada. Food Network received heavy coverage in the Caribbean. I go to Jamaica and it’s funny, the world recognizes me. In Brazil too. »

His most recent show, Chuck and the cuisine of the first peoplesis undoubtedly the most enriching he has done. “Since I had my children, I told myself that I must teach them to fish, to hunt, to chop wood, to make their own maple syrup…”

PHOTO MARC-ANDRÉ LAVOIE PROVIDED BY ÉDITIONS DE L’HOMME

Chuck Hughes and his family

Moreover, the one who learned to tap maple trees on the land of the family chalet in Magog has a particular affection for the sugar season. But the recipe for pancakes with maple syrup that he publishes in Home cookingthin pancakes rolled then cooked in butter and syrup, rather comes from the holiday buffet at Château Montebello. It’s a family tradition to meet there around Christmas. “Every year I look forward to this taste again. »

PHOTO PROVIDED BY ÉDITIONS DE L’HOMME

A seafood chili

Signed comfort

Comforting recipes are also those of nostalgia. In Chuck’s extended family, Grandma’s “shrimp aspic” (which is more of a salmon and shrimp mousse, the chef admits) is a very treasured dish. It was served at all meetings and special occasions. “Mamie” died at 100 years old, during the pandemic. But his recipe is immortalized in the book.

Never stopping, the hyperactive is already working on another work, to mark the 20th anniversary of his restaurant, which will be celebrated in 2026.

I do a lot of things, shows, a range of products, but it remains on a human scale. It’s not like I have 10 restaurants.

Chuck Hughes

Even if we rarely hear about it in Montreal, Garde-manger seems to continue on its merry way. “After 18 years, I would say we are at the top. There are customers, vibe is beautiful, food is good. Unfortunately, the increase in all costs has meant that the Pantry has become a luxury restaurant. I don’t want to change my outlook and start buying frozen scallops to save money,” explains the jack-of-all-trades who shows no snobbery.

Instead of eating “Chuck Hughes” at a restaurant, we can now cook even more at home, taking advantage of the fall season to entertain family and friends around braised brisket and mashed potatoes. with brown butter, maple-roasted Brussels sprouts… and a beautiful apple galette.

Home cooking. My favorite recipes for my family and friends

Home cooking. My favorite recipes for my family and friends

Chuck Hughes

Les Éditions de l’Homme

280 pages

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