IN PICTURES – Saint-Jean-de-Bournay has hidden a jewel of the textile industry for 140 years

The Gallia factory is hidden at the end of a small street in Saint-Jean-de-Bournay in Nord-Isère, in the same place since 1884. Here, we perpetuate a know-how that has become almost unique in 140 years: the weaving of braids, intended for uniforms and liturgical outfits around the world.

Inside, miles of wires are held on weaving looms, some of which date from the 19th century. The braids made in these workshops are sold in 60 countries. Thierry Gontard leans over one of the machines and shows a golden braid, “the most used in the world” specifies the factory director, “There is a lot of use for airline uniforms with a metal frame.”

Isère braids at the coronation of Charles III

The stripes of the Nord-Isère factory are therefore displayed on uniforms but also on religious ceremonial outfits – up to the Vaticanand on the clothing of different royal families. “We worked a lot when there was the coronation of King Charles III and also the death of Queen Elizabeth, but the death of the Queen had been managed very well in advance in the United Kingdom” says Thierry Gontard. “In all the royal courts in Europe, we find our stripes! Whether it’s Denmark, Spain… And then on TV, when you see soldiers marching on July 14 for example, it’s the showcase uniforms! What we weave here, we find all over the world.”

Gallia has only two competitors in Europe, one in France and the other in Germany. The challenge for the Isère factory is to maintain know-how; the weaving and maintenance of 82 looms of the factory. It’s the most complicated thing today, says the director, especially since retirements will follow one another. “We need to renew all our employees. Here, it’s a know-how that is quite unique but it’s a long learning process” insists Thierry Gontard.

Gallia trains its staff from A to Z

“We train staff from A to Z but it’s training that will take several months or even several years” because the professions are very diverse. “We have weavers, we have fitters, those who prepare the loom before weaving, we have the warping upstream” either the preparation of the spools of thread, finally there is “garners, who are the team leaders and who will do the start-ups and preparations. When we recruit someone, it is only for the long term, it is to train them and to keep them years.”

Must therefore “find enthusiasts”, meticulous and patient. Currently, around twenty people work in the Gallia workshops. Reinforcement would be more than welcome because for the director, “What’s a little frustrating is that we have work and we’re going to dissatisfy customers because we don’t have enough trained staff to respond satisfactorily to customers.” Production times are long, a guarantee of quality assures Thierry Gontard, “it’s true that I would have two or three more people, we would be much better off” he laughed.

Even when lacking hands, Gallia produces on average 58,000 meters of braid each month with motifs taken froma catalog of 8,000 drawings. If you wish to apply – experience in sewing is welcome – you can drop your CV in the factory mailbox, chemin de Croulas in Saint-de-Bournay, or contact it at 04.74.58.70.06.