In Tbilisi, this church serves as a refuge from government repression, without commenting on the current political crisis. An attitude which reflects the ambiguities of the Orthodox patriarchy.
A spiritual shelter, a few dozen meters from the Georgian Parliament, where lasers and loudspeakers continue to express the anger of anti-government demonstrators. The Church of Saint George of Kashveti is the only haven of peace in this sector of Tbilisi, the Georgian capital. Some come to light a candle there every evening, because they owe a debt of gratitude to the guardians of the place. “The priests saved me, that’s the truth”says Nukri A., 25 years old, five days after escaping tear gas fired by the police. “I was at the bus stop with friends, at the top of the steps, and there were heavily equipped agents all around. We went down to the square, and there, five or six priests came out. They placed themselves in front of us, like a wall of protection. A little later, the religious escorted the demonstrators through a park, to have them evacuated to a street located downstream.
On the first evening of the demonstrations, as usual, the small church closed its doors at 8 p.m. “But now we are open all nightsmiles Father Ioané, in order to be able to provide assistance if necessary. We have organized a guard and an additional mass is organized at 9 p.m..” This is confirmed by the still warm smell of incense. Some demonstrators, on occasion, come to distribute lobianis, breads filled with beans, to the priests, or exchange a few words. “When there is tear gas, we quickly see disoriented people. We then head towards the stairs to invite the demonstrators to take shelter at the churchcontinues the priest. We give them some treatment and bring them inside, because the air quickly becomes saturated.”
This very pleasant man, who speaks easily about football and wine, supports his demonstration by taking some physiological serums from his pocket, before placing them in our hands. It is much more difficult, on the other hand, to address political subjects. “The question is complex. There are many questions and the Church is not intended to fuel the current escalation of tensions”he evades. “I still think it is our duty to help others and to keep in mind that freedom of expression is a right.” This last remark already represents a profession of faith, while the Patriarchate of Georgia officially promotes peace and unity of the country. And is careful not to comment on recent decisions by those in power.
On the front line during the nights of mobilization, the small church completed in 1910 offers comfort and security to the demonstrators. The police, until now, have always maintained a distance from religious people. But the careful language and displayed neutrality still end up disappointing some demonstrators. “I really believe in God, but something is a little broken with the Church”summary Vepkhia Magrakvelidze, 27 ans.
“We believe more in the Church than in the government. But her popularity could decline if she continues to remain silent in the face of power.”
Vepkhia Magrakvelidze, Georgian protesterat franceinfo
“This lack of courage hurts me a littlecontinues the young man. But the people who make the decisions, at the top of the Church hierarchy, are close to power.”
The question arouses irrepressible embarrassment among two other older priests. “The church is open to everyone”answers first. “The church is open to everyonecompletes the second. Georgians are all our children.” When we ask him to cite a notable memory from these last nights, during which they came to the aid of tearful sheep, he immediately evades: “Sounds like an interview, right? Sorry, we can't answer.” The very sensitive political question calls for caution. Few Orthodox religious representatives have spoken publicly. The day before, some priests nevertheless participated in an ecumenical march, as individuals, in order to demand peace in front of Parliament.
A young man crosses the square with a determined step, removes his hood and his diving mask, crosses himself and enters the church, where he stays for around ten minutes. Does he think that priests are intended to deliver a political message? “Yes! I pray to God that they do”he responds immediately, raising his hands and eyes to the sky. “I stay in front of Parliament every night. My friends sometimes suggest that I rest, but I have never been able to be away for more than 36 hours”continues this graffiti artist, who presents himself under the pseudonym Tabu92art.
“I come to pray for myself, but also for all those who are arrested and attacked: journalists, doctors and all the others.”
Tabu92art, Georgian protesterat franceinfo
Other faithful see no dilemma, like Gotcha Tchimakadze, who leaves the church with a flag on his back. This demonstrator alternates between slogans and prayers as if it were obvious. “The identity of Georgians is religion. One cannot exist without the other. It’s the same fight. Opposite are Bolsheviks, Russians, the same ones who covered the paintings in churches during the Soviet period.he assures. If he refuses to say which party he voted for during the last legislative elections, he assures us that it was “obviously” for the opposition, car “the future of the country is in Europe”.
At the end of October, the patriarchy recalled that it could not take sides in the current crisis, while emphasizing that it would support any choice that would bring “long-term peace” et “would strengthen the values that promote Christian and family traditions”. This speech was interpreted as a mark of support for the Georgian Dream party, while the government had just adopted a law against “LGBT propaganda”, in the name of “family values”. But the repetition of attacks and violence nevertheless places the Church in a difficult situation. After the beating of journalists by masked men on Saturday evening, the patriarchy ended up demanding from the government and the State the immediate opening of an investigation and the immediate cessation of this type of action.
Outside, the crowd continues to express its anger in a concert of whistles and songs and to burn effigies of the oligarch Bidzina Ivanishvili and the head of the special forces. Which does not shock Leon Gelovan. The priest officiates year-round in the Georgian church in kyiv, but he is back in his hometown for a while. “The first day of violence, the church was closed and the police took people”he remembers as he leaves Saint-Georges-de-Kachveti. “I intervened, but I only managed to protect two or three people, while the others were violently arrested.”
While Ukraine has been fighting the Russian invasion for almost three years, its reading of events is more clear-cut. “My people have a choice between slavery or freedom. I try to speak with the priests of the church, but I don't want to embarrass them either. The Georgian patriarchy must find the strength of freedom.” The man shows us the huge tree installed just opposite, in front of Parliament: “This year, it should be the symbol of freedom. Because to be Christian is to be free.”
This report was produced with the help of Ina Inaridze, a journalist in Georgia, for the translation.
