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Audrey Gruaz
Published on
Jan 5, 2025 at 11:36 a.m.
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Follow the Marne
It is no longer necessary to cross the border to enjoy the culinary specialties of Portugal. The owner of the Licorne d’Or, Nathalie Pingouin, brings her Portuguese origins to Vaires-sur-Marne to delight customers’ taste buds.
The place
On the Place du Vieux Vaires, a facade in the colors of the tide hides the restaurant La Licorne d’Or. Once through the door, we discover a place full of life. A space painted on blue backgrounds takes customers on a journey to the seaside.
Placed opposite a pétanque court, the southern heat on the plates warms the body in the middle of winter. This decoration was not chosen by Nathalie Pingouin, she took over that of the old brand. There was no lack of desire. “I wanted to do some work,” says Nathalie. But after the Covid 19 health crisis, the financial funds were not sufficient.
Before the first period of confinement in 2020, Nathalie received 40 to 50 place settings. Today, she struggles to have 20 seats, although there is no shortage of space in the room.
If Nathalie couldn’t choose the decoration, she made it her own. Named after the Golden Unicorn, small magical decorative details are hidden between the tables. Among the traditional roosters and Portuguese flags, a few unicorns and fairies soberly decorate this large room.
Depending on the summer and seasonal periods, Nathalie likes to adjust the decoration of her restaurant. For the end-of-year celebrations, a Christmas tree adorns the entrance to the restaurant. La Licorne d’Or also welcomes birthday receptions, baptisms and even weddings. In the middle of Christmas celebrations, Nathalie organizes the union of a couple who benefits from decoration adapted to the period. The tables are now dotted with red and the walls decorated with large fir branches, to the delight of the bride and groom.
The mind
When Nathalie opened her restaurant in 2018, she decided to make the Licorne d’Or a warm and family bistro. These two values overlap in the name La Unicorne d’Or, an idea given by his children. It is the result of the addition of the magical imagination of the unicorn with the name of the old brand, the Goldilocks.
For Nathalie, taking back part of the soul of the old restaurant was close to her heart. The magical side brought by his children reflects his personality. “I’m someone who really likes to take risks and who doesn’t give up,” she says. A fight that we find in the restaurant for which she has been fighting for six years. After having a prolonged personal covid, Nathalie was not able to reopen the restaurant until April 2022 due to medical concerns. It was inconceivable for him to close his first restaurant.
To maintain her establishment, Nathalie Pingouin innovates and organizes karaoke and tea dance evenings. She is convinced because “it pleases”. She is already thinking about setting up a special evening on the occasion of Mardi Gras, where disguises are welcome.
The team
At Nathalie Pingouin, catering is a big family affair. If she worked in catering from the age of 15 to 35 in the family restaurant, it is her daughter’s turn to join her, at the Golden Unicorn. “It’s a family restaurant,” explains Nathalie, who wouldn’t see herself doing it any other way. There are four in the restaurant, two cooks and two people to provide service. There is real cohesion within the team, essential for the boss. Nathalie affirms that “it’s important to have real communication within the team, I want good understanding”. If there should be tensions, it is never in front of the customers for whom Nathalie is always very attentive.
The plate
Finding the right balance between the demands of French cuisine and the indulgence of Portuguese cuisine is not an easy task. Between duck confit or braz cod, customers face difficult choices at the foot of this dual culinary culture. La Licorne d’Or highlights tradition and indulgence in its dishes.
The generosity of the dishes pleases regulars, who even have the option of having it delivered before midday. The recipes presented on the menu change every month depending on what is found. At the moment, Nathalie confides that “at lunchtime, the cuisine is more French”, without neglecting the rich Portuguese specialties.
In the kitchen, La Licorne d’Or only offers fresh food. “Everything is homemade,” says Nathalie. The manager does her shopping with her usual suppliers. “I have my butcher, my fishmonger and my Portuguese supplier of course! », she exclaims. If she doesn’t find what she’s looking for from her usual suppliers, Nathalie goes to a fishmonger or a butcher in Vaires-sur-Marne, favoring local products.
L’addition
At the Unicorne d’Or, everyone is happy. Customers have the choice between several menus, including starter, main course and dessert for a price range between 30 and 40€. La Licorne d’Or also offers a daily menu at a price of €21.50, suitable for smaller wallets.
Where and when
The restaurant is open from Monday to Saturday during the lunch break between 12 p.m. and 2:30 p.m. To keep up to date with the times and dates of the evenings and musical atmospheres organized at the restaurant, go to the La Licorne D’or Facebook account.
The restaurant welcomes you at 10 place du Vieux Vaires in Vaires-sur-Marne. You can contact them on 01 60 20 36 62 or at the email address [email protected]
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