the essential
Truffle producers are disappointed: the season is not as good as expected in the Lot. The December rain encouraged the proliferation of slugs. In truffle farming, the damage is significant with half as much harvest in certain sectors.
We might as well say it straight away: slugs and truffles do not go well together. And yet, the planets were aligned. Lot truffle producers had even tuned their violins at the beginning of December to predict a very good season. A month later, it's a cold shower. “We thought it would be a great year and ultimately, we are running out of truffles,” recognizes Delphine Vigne, truffle grower and president of the Friends of the Truffle House, in Cuzance. She counted, the calculations were quickly made and were not good: “At present, we already know that there are fewer truffles than last year, at the same time. We are half as much. Last year, over the weekends in January, I harvested 12 kg. This year, it's more like 6 kg. Around it, in the North, the Lotois producers who usually supply 3 kg per week only have, this winter, one kilo.
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The Sainte-Alvère market, in Dordogne, which opens the season, set the tone: on the stalls, compared to the 75 kg of black truffles present in 2023, last year there were only 35. The fault to the rain and therefore, to slugs. “This season is a real scourge. It rained a lot in December and the slugs arrived. We found holey and damaged truffles from the beginning of December until Christmas,” explains the producer. The truffles were collected but downgraded. Some could not sell. Because a truffle eaten by a slug can be seen: it is perforated and has galleries, once cut in two.
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“We found ourselves with a lot of sorting to do in December. Out of a kilo collected, half was really not great,” remembers Delphine Vigne. The one who is also a restaurateur has not spoiled anything: the less elegant truffles have been split and grated in salt, butter or will be used to produce ice cream. Just as many derivative products. Those that really weren't usable were resown. Same observation in the Lalbenque sector, this time to the south of the Lot. “We have less than what was planned. The rain in the fall and the drought this summer have not worked in our favor. The trees have suffered too much from the heat these last two years and the hoped-for births of truffles have not “did not take place”, summarizes Jean-Jacques Fourès, the president of the association of truffle growers of the canton of Lalbenque and the Causses du Quercy. Those who watered are doing a little better. But the quantity is still not there. Here, slugs have also wreaked havoc. “In my memory as a producer, this is the first time that I have seen so many slugs causing damage to the truffles,” announces the truffle grower. In addition to slugs, there is another disruptive element: leiodes.
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130 kg sold in one month in Lalbenque
A small red insect which pierces the truffle 2 to 3 millimeters in diameter, nibbles it and rejects the pieces into the earth. A natural process which allows re-seeding but which also damages the truffle. “Last Tuesday, I saw truffles on the market that were completely eaten, at least half. I encourage producers to cut the damaged piece and sell these truffles separately, as a second choice,” continues Jean-Jacques Foures. In its sector, the harvest is equivalent to last year. 25 kilos flow onto the bench compared to 50 kilos in prolific years.
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For now, since the opening of the Lalbenque market on Tuesday December 3, 130 kg have been sold. “It's not enough. The truffles still lack flavor but what worries me most is the quantity. Because if the situation recurs from year to year, the markets will have difficulty surviving for ten years of more,” he predicts. It should also be noted that because of the rain, some producers did not go out to cave. Truffles sell for around 750 euros per kilo on the market.
However, the truffles should get through this month of January. “It's been getting better since Christmas, there's been less damage. The cold has started to take effect and has killed the slugs. The truffle is starting to look nice and black”, continues Delphine Vigne, north of the Lot, who has been observing for several days less “waste” in its production. Hopefully it lasts.
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