DFor years, white-collar gourmets have made their way here, not far from Place de l'Etoile. Destination: one of the most established business tables there is, Chiberta, by Guy Savoy, a table next to his gourmet restaurant on rue Troyon, moved in 2015 to Monnaie de Paris and still first in La Liste, the ranking of the 1000 best restaurants in the world.
Since last summer, she remembers us fondly under the leadership of the new owner, Clément Leroy, twelve years of good and loyal service in the same rue Troyon, with the man whose name you will have guessed.
Carné, the meat offering from Chiberta
A seasoned chef, accustomed to large brigades, here he is back on the Parisian scene, after Chantilly (Auberge du Jeu de Paume), London (The Square) and four years of a personal break. Changing the decor was not the priority. No problem, with its subdued lighting and contemporary works of art, this one stays in tune. Clément Leroy, on the other hand, did not wait to bring a new dynamic to the place, which houses two tables in one. In the back room, at the Carné brand, he has put together a glamorous meat offering. There you can enjoy noble pieces of beef (Wagyu sirloin, Holstein T-bone, Aquitaine blonde tartare) well accompanied, notably with devilish wafer potatoes.
Foie gras cooked in beeswax, Clément Leroy's signature dish at Chiberta
In the first room, the chef displays his gastronomic know-how and his love of beautiful products, cooked for what they are, with a modern touch and a traveling flair. Cooked gently in beeswax, the foie gras advances in a subtle saffron broth. The sweetbread plays a land-sea pas de deux with the cuttlefish, cooked over the flame, all drizzled with a spicy pil-pil sauce and an ink veal jus. Cooked in puffed scales and accompanied by a variation of cauliflower, the red mullet exudes softness and crispness, enhanced with a tangy touch of candied lemon. Heads or tails, the coin always lands on the right side.
To Discover
Kangaroo of the day
Answer
The Chiberta. 3, rue Arsène-Houssaye, 75008 Paris. lechiberta.com. Menus: 68 (lunch) 135 and 185 €. Card: €120-170. Carné. Card: approx. €150.
