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Editorial Paris
Published on
Nov. 20, 2024 at 12:18 p.m.
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It has not yet become the phenomenon that it was in the 1970s and 1980s, but the beaujolais nouveau is indeed in the process of operating a spectacular return to grace among Parisians. After having been tainted with a bad reputation (sometimes justified) for its “banana taste”, early wine, which is today the subject of a lot of attention from winegrowers, is riding the trend for light and light red wines. not very tannic, to drink without fuss with friends for an evening or forever.
A classic recipe, but well practiced
The resurgence of “Beaujolais Nouveau” evenings in the capital in the coming days testifies to this craze. Faith of Tristan Olphe-Galliard, leader of the network of wine-loving establishments in the region, created by the Beaujolais vineyard inter-professional association.
The capital alone has nearly a hundred 'Beaujolais bistros'. The majority of them organized themselves to have parties Thursday evening, Friday evening and even during the weekend and the following week.
The recipe for successful Beaujolais Nouveau evenings is classic, but well-established. They are organized around a counter and tables where people are happy to mingle, a special “winemaker” menu at a reasonable price and the inevitable new “semi-carbonic maceration” wine, served in glass, in a jar (46 cl, Lyon style) or in a bottle. The atmosphere is generally provided by an orchestra made up of friends of the boss or professionals, all happily ending with a few dance steps and sonorous songs.
Beaujolais Nouveau “as soon as possible”
If you can't wait until Thursday evening, the jovial team of Little Périgourdine (39, rue des Écoles, 5th) offers Beaujolais “as early as possible” with a special menu (at €24) on Wednesday evening with accordion while waiting for the first bottles of “new” to open at midnight, at which time it can be be put up for sale.
The countdown of the final seconds is worthy of Cape Canaveral. The entire rue des Écoles will be alive on Thursday at early wine hour, with Jean-Luc and Christophe Martin, the owners, simultaneously organizing a Musette ball from 7 p.m. at “Petite Pé”, a “wild” evening in their bistro In front (located… opposite, 28 rue des Écoles) and a concert with clarinetist at The Annex (at 22 of the same artery). Beaujolais and music go well together!
Les Halles and beyond
There should be no shortage of atmosphere in the Les Halles district either. Hunting horns are promised to Louchebem (10, rue des Prouvaires, 1st) and the accordion opposite, at Bistrot de Léo (7, rue des Prouvaires), while the corks will be popped in bursts a few meters away, at Bistrot des Halles (15, rue des Halles, 1er), at Vincent Limouzin which offers unbeatable charcuterie boards. Not far from there, the mythical Pig's trotter (6, rue Coquillière, 1st) will kick off the “24 hours of Beaujolais Nouveau” at midnight, with the tasting of Beaujolais Villages Nouveau from Domaine des Nugues by Gilles Gelin, whose label was designed by Jul.
This week, Beaujolais Nouveau will flow in all districts of Paris. In the 9th, Laurent Nègre, winner of the 2024 Best Pot Cup for Grille Montorgueil (1st), is organizing a special evening in another of his addresses, The Spark (33, rue de Clichy, 9th), which he promises to be “memorable”.
In Montmartre, we will compete at a distance, between on the one hand The Mascot (52, rue des abbesses, 18th) at the bottom of the steps, which announces “pistachio sausage, venison stew and praline tart” washed down with three new beaujos; and on the other hand The Good Franquette (18, rue Saint-Rustique, 18th), at the top of the Butte, where the Fracheboud family rarely skimps on the number of primeur references.
From the most popular to the most chic
To the south of the capital, the popular Vaudésir will brave the rain (and snow?) by opening its two terraces and promises a series of evenings Thursday, Friday, Saturday and even the whole following week!
In the west of Paris, The Bizetro (6, rue Georges-Bizet, 16th), The Bougnat (15, rue Torricelli, 17th) or The Guersant (30, boulevard Gouvion-Saint-Cyr, 17th) will be there.
While in the east, Christophe Chenal and Rémi Demulder (The Wine Glass215, rue de Bercy, 12th) brought accordion and trombone players from Savoie to their wine cellar-restaurant. Sébastien and Pauline Girin, at BaBA (53, rue de Tolbiac, 13th), will highlight their namesake winemaker, from Domaine Girin, which produces one of the most sought-after Beaujolais Nouveau.
And if you think that Beaujolais Nouveau is snubbed by the big restaurants, think again. Stéphane Pitré, starred chef at Louis (23, rue de la Victoire, 9th), is organizing a Beaujolais evening in his neighboring bistro (The Cellar25 rue de la Victoire) with accordionist and dining boards. On the evening of Beaujolais Nouveau, conviviality is what counts!
Bruno Carlhian
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