Paris men’s fashion week on Wednesday made the public swing from laughter to tears, between the neon of Kenzo, the clowns of Walter Van Beirendonck, the standing of Wales Bonner and the sensual flawlessness of Louis Gabriel Nouchi.
– Kenzo: Tokyo comfort on Parisian gold
The Kenzo house, under the aegis of LVMH, revisited in the evening in the gardens of the Palais-Royal in Paris what Parisian gold gives when it meets Tokyo streetwear.
The men appear in work clothes, inspired by the uniforms of Japanese construction workers in a baggy denim version with an explosion of colors from yellow to orange and green, in all its shades.
The woman is less comfortable, in her beach crochet evening dresses and bandeau tops like a Furokishi wrap
The full mesh hood zipped in the middle of the face and the bomber jacket, a piece already acquired for next season, marked the show by Japanese designer Nigo.
– Wales Bonner: the Anglo-Caribbean shower
British fashion genius, Wales Bonner, born to a British mother and a Jamaican father and who has won the biggest fashion awards at the age of 31 since graduating in 2014 from Central Saint Martins in London, remains on her phenomenal launch.
Its intellectual and identity touch has nevertheless flowed this season in a gentle summer shower, with a collection inspired by “the vibe of a seaside town”.
Dark red and water palette for this mixed collection, which mixes crochet and Caribbean print with perfectly mastered tailoring when it comes to the jackets, worn for example over scarlet red unisex swim briefs.
– LGN: return of grace
The rising star of French men’s fashion, who missed the mark during his last collection, has lined up in the courtyard of the Monnaie de Paris a most profitable collection, full of desirability and sensuality.
The men’s silhouettes are very textured and provocative, with bikers in fishnet and thick, shiny leather suit jackets, gender-neutral dresses and skirts, and daytime pajama-like suits.
The shirt, which can only be seen « tucked »tucked into the front of the pants and with a little volume, is adorned with a clever elastic at the stomach to give this effect, tucked into the waistband.
– Delirium belge chez Walter von Beirendonck
Paris Fashion Week Menswear – Walter Van Beirendonck / Geoffroy VAN DER HASSELT / AFP
The Belgian Walter von Beirendonck, idol of an entire generation of the LGBT scene « bear » across the world, has once again pushed the limits of the zany with a collection dedicated to the figure of the clown.
The oversized fluorescent costumes, with a smiley cousin on the buttocks and a little cardboard cone birthday hat on the head, maxi polka dot shoes, play regression.
But if you look closely, it’s sad clowns that the designer sends onto the catwalk, with rifle-pierced stuffed animals and smiles corrected with sharp lipstick.
– Jeanne Friot, likes ” stronger “
With the Frenchwoman Jeanne Friot, who invented the concept of « gender fuck »overcoming gendered or degendered fashion, the collection partly sponsored by Tinder celebrated on the roof of its school in Paris the loves that are assumed.
A model prepares before the Jeanne Friot spring-summer 2025 men’s ready-to-wear show as part of Paris Fashion Week in Paris on June 19, 2024. / GEOFFROY VAN DER HASSELT / AFP
Under a threatening sky, the designer, very committed to the left, wore a t-shirt with a message, against “racism, sexism, homophobia and transphobia”.
The collection, dedicated to “idols” which allow you to lift your chin and take charge, is available in trompe-l’oeil, fishnets and visual games, as with the dress made of ten belts or the maxi boot which becomes part of the piece up to mid-thigh. central to the look.
