meeting the Bergeracois winegrowers

In this Périgord which celebrates the art of everyday living, the Bergerac vineyard extends on both sides of the Dordogne over 11,300 hectares. Planted on seven terroirs, its vines produce dry, sweet, sweet, rosé or red white wines, under 17 different designations of origin. If the winegrowers there have profiles as varied as their wines, many open their doors to make them known by offering a multitude of activities.

To prepare for your visit, it may be appropriate to stop at Quai de Cyrano in Bergerac. Overlooking the river, the modern building leaning against the 17th century Récollets cloister houses the tourist office and the Maison des vins. A showcase of this winemaking know-how, it presents some 150 references. Enough to make an initial selection before setting off to meet women and men committed to the environment – ​​35% of them working in organic farming – and eager to share their passion.

Montaigne Castle

A jewel if there ever was one, the Château de Montaigne combines viticulture and heritage. In the 16th century, at the time when Michel Eyquem de Montaigne wrote his famous “Essais” there, wine was already being produced there. It is today surrounded by 11 hectares of vines in organic conversion and almost the entire harvest is sold on site. In the tower, the oldest part of the castle, the great man’s office is recreated, a true place of pilgrimage for his readers from all over the world.

The building, rebuilt in Belle Époque style in 1886 after a fire, attracts ghost hunters and other influencers who love strange phenomena. This private site, which remained in the Montaigne family until 1811, became the property, in 1860, of Pierre Magne, minister several times, notably under Napoleon III. His descendants, who still visit occasionally, opened it to visitors a few years ago, and two new rooms have been visible there since the spring. Same alliance between history and working the land at the Château de Panisseau with Claire Janoueix, who studied art history before turning to viticulture, and Audouin d’Aboville. At less than 30 years old, the couple invested, both in a historic monument dating back to the 12th century, which they tour on certain occasions, and a wine property, which has long produced quality wines. They intend to wake both of them up.

In the heart of the Périgord pourpre, only four communes produce the Pécharmant appellation

Commented cheese and wine pairings

In the Montravel appellation area, Gaëlle Reynou-Gravier, an agricultural engineer by training, took over the family estate of Perreau (25 hectares) fifteen years ago. She thought about how to maintain connections with her customers after the pandemic. By adapting in particular to the needs of families. She has set up a space for children in her new stone cellar and lets them taste grape juice. In addition to geocaching which has just been inaugurated, teenagers will be seduced by the escape game which takes place in two rooms fitted out for this purpose in the oldest building on the estate with the tools and furniture collected over time by the father of the winemaker. Adults will enjoy the guided cheese and wine pairings in the vineyards at sunset during the summer.

A land of exploration

In the heart of the Périgord pourpre, only four communes, including Creysse, produce the Pécharmant appellation, the oldest vineyard in Bergerac. Initially biodynamic winegrowers in Sainte-Foy-la-Grande, Côme and Christophe Piat acquired the 40 hectares of vines from the neighboring Château de Tiregand there in 2022. “The wine is still alive and the Pécharmant appellation is strong,” considers the young man. This is why it set about renovating a 17th century building to welcome visitors in better conditions and expand its receptive offering, before creating an immersive tour next year. An ambition worthy of this field: it is in fact one of the largest independent producers in the sector. Heir to ancestral know-how, Monbazillac, sweet with a golden color, is the result of a fragile balance between the clay-limestone terroir, the sunshine, the well-exposed hillsides, the mists and the autumn frosts. contributing to the appearance of “noble rot” on candied bunches, which will be harvested late. This is what the very recent scenography of the Monbazillac castle museum explains over 300 square meters. Bought in 1960 by the cooperative cellar bringing together 48 wine growers from the appellation, the building, located on a promontory embracing the entire valley, has remained almost unchanged since the 16th century. There coexists an exhibition retracing its history and that of the Bacalan family, works of art and, in the cellars, fun activities for children. This centerpiece of local heritage attracts no less than 60,000 visitors per year. The Bergeracois is also a land of exploration for winegrowers who intend to move the lines.

Like Juliette Sbrana, previously operations director in agricultural high schools. She bought La Robertie three years ago from Brigitte Soulier, with the aim of making this clay terroir a field of experimentation. She vinifies, for example, part of her Ecce vintage, a fruity white with a nice tension on the palate, as well as an orange maceration wine without sulphites, in stoneware jars. Its range, which includes a natural sparkling wine, totals a dozen different wines. No visitors at her house. Working alone with an employee, she doesn’t have the time, but meeting her when coming to buy on site or at a show makes you understand that “wine is sensitivity, emotion and energy. »

At Château Les Monderys, David and Emmanuelle Fourtout, who sold their Verdots vineyard, invested the proceeds of the sale to buy vines and equip themselves with cutting-edge modern tools. They were inspired by their travels abroad to imagine their custom-designed gravity cellar to limit human handling as much as possible. This bright place houses a tasting room, which transforms at nightfall into a celestial vault and houses an incredible terrace upstairs with a panoramic view. They converted it into a lounge bar for musical summer evenings. An original way to appreciate the beauty of this natural setting. In Bergeracois, the landscapes offer as much to see as to drink and the pleasure of the taste buds goes hand in hand with that of the eyes.

ADDRESS BOOK

To see, to visit

The tower and castle Michel de Montaigne

Allow two hours to independently discover the Montaigne tower, the park and follow the guided tour of the castle which ends with a tasting: €17. 24230 Saint-Michel-de-Montaigne, +33 (0)5 53 58 63 93.

The castle of Monbazillac

The visit includes the new scenographies of the museum and the castle. €11.50 with the tasting of one wine or €17.50 for three wines. Château de Monbazillac, the village, 24240 Monbazillac, tel. : 05 53 61 52 52.

Domaine de Perreau

Discovery of the biodiversity trail stretching over 1.3 km with winemaker Gaëlle Reynou-Gravier (€5 per person). Also an escape game from 10 years old (€15 adult) or a wine and cheese tasting in the vineyards on July 26 and August 9. By reservation at 06 81 08 98 36. Lieu-dit Perreau, 24230 Saint-Michel-de-Montaigne. Such. : 05 47 56 01 61.

The cellars of the Château de Tiregand

Theme evenings and gourmet market once a month this summer. Visit with tasting of three wines €7, five wines €15, €3 additional for cheese and wine pairing. 118, route de Saint-Alvère, 24200 Creysse. Tel. : 05 53 23 21 08.

Chateau Les Monderys

Free visit and tasting, in a star-studded setting. Lounge bar with wines from the property and plates to share. Open Thursday to Saturday from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. from June 6, then from 12 p.m. to 9 p.m. Monday to Saturday from July 15 to August 31. 328, route de Peyrelevade, 24560 Conne-de-Labarde. Such. : 05 53 74 85 08.

Chateau La Robertie

2, chemin de La Robertie, 24240 Rouffignac-de-Sigoulès. Such. : 06 77 13 85 85.

Chateau La Jaubertie

For the 50th anniversary of its first vintage, this estate, which has belonged to the Ryman family since 1973, has strengthened its activities program with yoga sessions in the gardens, a land art exhibition or original painting workshops using wine as a medium. Reservation at 05 53 58 32 11. 24560 Colombier.

Where to eat

The XXIV

Alone in the kitchen, Martin Porier works with fresh seasonal products. Very good value for money. Lunch menu: €25. 14, rue Saint-Clar, 24100 Bergerac. Such. : 05 53 22 37 26.

Cyrano Quay

Ideal for tasting the wines of some 130 winegrowers from the Maison des vins. Note the commented tasting workshops, on Thursdays once a month (€22). 1, rue des Récollets, 24100 Bergerac. Such. : 05 53 57 03 11.

Fayolle Castle

The American-Swiss Franck and Riki Campbell serve the property’s organic wines with a platter of charcuterie, local cheeses, soup, fruits and vegetables… By reservation. 16 €/pers. the board. 24240 Saussignac. Such. +33 5 53 74 32 02.

Or sleep

Panisseau Castle

The outbuildings of the old farmhouse have been transformed into a gîte for 2 or 8 people. €100/night for two people with a minimum of two nights. €9 per visit. 24240 Thénac. Such. 05 53 58 40 03.