Eugenio Anfuso and Cecilia Spurio © GP
A great table has just been born in Paris, signed by an outstanding duo: Eugenio Anfuso, a Tuscan from Florence, and his partner Cecilia Spurio, a native of Marche. Both worked in Milan in beautiful starred establishments before France, where they continued to shine, she, as a pastry chef at Guy Savoy at the Hôtel de la Monnaie and Yannick Alleno at the Pavillon Ledoyen, he as chef de partie at Gaya by Pierre Gagnaire, at Astrance by Pascal Barbot, finally at Ambrosie under the aegis of Bernard Pacaud.
Artichoke, black garlic and feta tart © GP
They revisited the former Robert on rue de la Fontaine au Roi with refinement: a few tablecloths, one in gray marble facing the open kitchen, beautiful glassware, plates that are pretty to look at, exquisite to munch on in a French-style way. creative and light Italian. The tastes are clean, clear, controlled, the seasonings just right, the combinations sometimes risky. But the whole thing is powerfully seductive.
Gnocchi with marinière and cockles, wild garlic oil © GP
So, in. amuse-bouche the fine artichoke and black garlic or feta tartlets, the one again, burnt, with 36-month-old parmesan, to be dipped in a venerable age of Modena balsamic vinegar. A high-class Italian nod? Gnocchi with cockles a la marinière seasoned with wild garlic oil. Superb, with the added bonus of the colors of the transalpine flag. Seasoned, raw and cooked asparagus, with egg yolk marinated in miso and mango, combined with peanuts and black lemon oil.
Asparagus, miso egg yolk, mango and peanuts © GP
This high-flying balancing act knows how to revisit Italian classics with panache. So the braised artichoke – which is reminiscent of the Jewish artichoke from Piperno in Rome – flavored with mint, with creamy goat’s milk and Amarelli liquorice. There are also ravioli stuffed with prawns with nduja condiment (the spicy Calabrian sausage) and cashew nuts, plus a lime shellfish hollandaise.
Ravioli stuffed with prawns, nduja condiment © GP
We will also like the skate wing, veiled in corn breadcrumbs, stuffed with tarragon, accompanied by a white butter with oysters and yuzu, plus white asparagus and broad beans. Or the royal pigeon on the barbecue (the same dish exists with free-range poultry for those who are reluctant to eat pigeon), with smoked eel, candied rhubarb, redcurrant emulsion. Invigorating and tasty!
Barbecue pigeon, smoked eel, candied rhubarb © GP
On this, we will drink French or Italian, trusting a young Colombian sommelier who has notably worked at Guy Savoy – such as the vidf Sancerre “le Tournebride” by Vincent Gaudry 2022, the mischievous Idro’miel, honey wine or fermented honey signed Giorgio Poeta reserve 2016, sna add the rich Barbera d’Alba by Silvio Grasso 2022.
Black garlic mousse, licorice, meringue balls and lemon © GP
And the chapter of sweets will delight you easily with this fabulous black garlic mousse with licorice and lemon powder, plus these meringue balls, before the mango, in mousse and sorbet, marigold and Chinese pomelo, plus a light cloud with saffron (ah, this lovely marriage of mango and saffron!). Even the sweet treats deserve applause, like the raspberry and basil tartlet, the sudashi and lovage “Turkish delights”, and crunchy chocolate candies (to be melted in the mouth). This is a future big table where we don’t know anything about it!
Sweet treats © GP
Amalia
32 rue de la Fontaine au Roi
Paris 11th
Such. 07 68 72 45 06
Menus: €80.120
Weekly closing. : Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday noon, Thursday noon, Friday noon
Nearby metro(s): Republic, Goncourt, Parmentier
Site: amaliarestaurant.com
