The house of Chanel presented this Tuesday at the Opéra Garnier in Paris a “grand evenings” haute couture collection, prepared by its studios after the sudden departure of its artistic director, Virginie Viard. Sophisticated, luxurious, theatrical, the collection is displayed in the exterior passageways surrounding the performance hall, transformed into red velvet boxes. Medieval cape, evening dress with puffed sleeves, elegant matador outfit with white bib and velvet tuxedo punctuate the house’s classic tweeds, with touches of burgundy and bright black. In this cozy decor, the very “Lagerfeldian” introduction of vinyl brings an unexpected touch to this parade of models wearing a large bow in their hair.
No greeting or comment from Virginie Viard. This collection was created by 150 fashion artisans installed in the secret workshops of rue Cambon, explains Chanel. The crisis had been brewing for months, the skeptical pouts in the front row of each Virginie Viard fashion show had become recurrent: it exploded on May 2, after Chanel’s cruise show in Marseille, criticized for its haphazard cuts and a certain lack of audacity.
Violence and criticism
A month later, the announcement of his departure took place outside the codes of the very regulated house founded by Gabrielle Chanel in 1910, in the middle of the night. Faced with the violence of criticism against the artistic director, whose departure was greeted with relief in the fashion microcosm, designer Lutz Huelle denounced “pure cruelty”. “I can’t imagine Karl working with someone for all these years without that person being able to do a great job,” he said.
Virginie Viard, 62, took this prestigious and demanding position in 2019, after the death of the legendary creator. She had previously worked alongside him for over 20 years. “Regardless of what one thinks of her work over the past five years, she found herself in the far from simple situation of having to, overnight, replacing one of the greatest and most beloved designers of the biggest brand in the world, a literally impossible task,” analyzed Lutz Huelle, whose fashion house is located in Paris.
The succession, carefully prepared by the “Kaiser” of fashion, was to be temporary. It lasted five years. The French designer, always dressed simply, in a T-shirt and black pants, was extremely discreet in the press and sober in her interventions, contrasting with the flamboyant character of her mentor.
Record profit
The desirability of the brand did not suffer, proof that what appeals to aficionados is not necessarily what appeals to customers. During these five years, sales of the house majority-owned by the Wertheimer family reached new heights, with a record of nearly $20 billion in 2023, a “new exceptional year” according to the brand. Since Virginie Viard took office, they have increased by 23% in the ready-to-wear sector.
What profile to replace Viard?
The brand could give itself time, like Vuitton after the sudden death of designer Virgil Abloh in 2021 or Dior after the departure of John Galliano. Among the names circulating, that of Hedi Slimane (Céline) has been coming up the most for months now, with the possibility of a first line for men.
More surprising would be those of the Frenchwoman Marine Serre or Simon Porte Jacquemus. Pierpaolo Piccioli, who left Valentino four months ago, would also be a legitimate candidate, as would the British Sarah Burton, who designed Princess Kate’s wedding dress.
