The fashion world has only the word “Jacquemus” on its lips at the moment. It must be said that the French stylist with the iconic lavender fields is increasing the news at the moment. The designer just opened his latest boutique in New York in October. But Simon Porte Jacquemus’ ambitions do not stop there. He has just confirmed that his house was looking for an investor with a very specific objective: to grow the brand internationally. The stylist has until now acted as a UFO in the world of fashion, since he has walked alone since the launch of his brand in 2009. Third news and not the least, the designer is preparing to unveil his first beauty line .
So lots of exciting news for the brand. Meanwhile, the investigative media on the luxury sector Glitz Paris has slightly dampened the mood. The weekly denounces a “business first” strategy behind this world of glitter, even if it means compromising the quality and durability of the products. “Despite the brand’s commercial success and expansion plans, Jacquemus lags behind in the use of sustainable materials and instead opts for synthetic materials, low-quality leathers and offshore production. The quality is reflected »immediately denounces the specialized media.
A lack of quality and transparency
As new regulations in the fashion sector approach, the consulting firm involved in the restructuring of Jacquemus would have recommended the use of more sustainable materials. An opinion which is opposed to the optimization of the brand’s production costs, which inevitably weighs on quality. In recent years, many annoyed customers have denounced the delivery time, but also the poor tracking of their orders. On TikTok, Twitter and Instagram, negative comments are legion. Beyond customer service, the majority of pieces on the Jacquemus site are produced in Bulgaria and Romania, with more than 75% synthetic materials, such as polyamide, acrylic or polyester.
The brand’s most famous bags – the Chiquito and the Bambino – are made in Italy and Portugal, but it is impossible to know precisely the origin of their materials. The “100% leather” label does not indicate the type of hide used. No information either on the hardware (clasps, handles, etc.). Glitz Paris highlights the fact that lacquered and colored finishes are also very useful for hiding possible defects. According to Simon Porte Jacquemus himself, his brand has never claimed to be eco-responsible.
If Jacquemus assumes to play the bad student, he creates the gap with many luxury brands which have understood the importance of highlighting their supply chain and their environmental commitments for the benefit of the long-term commitment of their consumers. Because, online, many customers notice the gap in quality compared to other competing brands that operate in the same price ranges.
As an example, the French media cites the brand’s emblematic bag, the Chiquito model, launched in 2017 and initially produced in Spain. If its manufacturing was transferred to Portugal and Italy, it was only to support larger volumes at lower cost. “This change made it possible to increase the brand’s margins: the average Chiquito model, sold for €720, costs around €70 to produce”we can read.
A success despite everything
If we omit the ethical and sustainability aspect, Jacquemus is a hit. In just a few years, the small family structure has transformed into an international luxury brand. In 2018, it had a turnover of 11.5 million euros. Five years later, in 2023, it reaches 280 million. Originally from Provence, Simon Porte Jacquemus launched his label in 2009 at the age of just 19. Success quickly became known thanks to its refreshing looks and iconic accessories, from the glove straw hat to the famous microscopic bag.
On Instagram, the brand is followed by more than 6.5 million subscribers. Rihanna and the Hadid sisters are fans. After a first physical store on Avenue Montaigne, Jacquemus conquered Dubai then New York. Today, although the brand has always wanted to preserve its independence – even if it means buying back at a high price, in 2022, the 10% that the Spanish group Puig held in the capital – it must cede a minority share of its capital to a potential partner. This is the only way to ensure the expansion of Jacquemus.
