A sweet summer nostalgia at the heart of change

Facing a multitude of young stars, Fendi presented a soft and nostalgic collection on a steamy Saturday in Milan. Ironic then that the upper echelons of the house come alive with numerous changes.

The perfectly staged parade marked the first appearance of new CEO Pierre-Emanuelle Angeloglu, a polyglot Frenchman, who sat in the front row, all smiles.

The executive can look forward to this latest collection from the house’s men’s designer, Silvia Fendi, who drew heavily on Fendi’s DNA while updating the look with technical fabrics and a subtle sense of humor.

Ranging from second-skin suedes seen in lightweight trench coats; to embroidered vests in reindeer hide and fine knits with finely cut versions of a western collar.

“Our historic Selleria stitching is very present, but it becomes very subtle, used as embroidery. It is not just about stitching, but more about the virtuosity of stitching applied to both accessories and ready-to-wear. wear,” explained Silvia Fendi.

The designer also played with coats of arms – a shield with a Janus head, Roman columns and Fendi’s double F logo – seen in yellow ribbed knits or rugby-inspired sweaters.

“The idea was to create a Fendi Club, like a gentlemen’s club, with a new crest that we designed using the first codes of the House, such as the squirrel, the two-headed Roman god Janus, the Pequin stripe and the FF logo, of course,” explained Silvia, welcoming a host of young celebrities to the packed backstage.

This was certainly true in this show where everything exuded richness and high quality without ever being stuffy. However, it was a bit surprising to also see the latest double-breasted suits, which were cut with curved hems, much like those at Dior Homme, designed by Fendi womenswear designer Kim Jones.

Although born in Rome, Fendi has always presented its ready-to-wear in Milan, choosing this season a huge white space, with models quite far from the public. Never a good idea.

Thanks to Silvia, Fendi has real power of attraction among celebrities. On the front line, Fendi Men ambassadors, such as British actor Nicholas Galitzine, Chinese actor Ren Meguro, who walked around the premises before the show holding a handbag to meet the expectations of dozens of paparazzi. The stars also came from the world of music, friend of the house Marco Mengoni, Mr. Rain and Tananai; James Turlington, son of iconic model Christy Turlington, and Korean singer Bang Chan. From cinema, the provocative director Xavier Dolan; sports, Tyrod Taylor of the New York Jets or Jonathan Kuminga of the Golden State Warriors.

However, La Silvia’s best idea was the excellent series of tartans in light pinks, pale greens, pinks and sand – applied to sporty trench coats, peacoats, varsity jackets and shorts. Certainly enough to launch a major trend in men’s fashion, and another example of Silvia’s foresight.

“I believe Fendi is a brand with great depth. Of course, anyone in my position would say that, but I truly believe that she has fantastic and unique DNA, and I can’t wait for us to create something together here,” Angeloglu said.

He will also oversee a total of seven brands within the LVMH group, including Kenzo, Marc Jacobs and Pucci, although Fendi is by far the largest.

In a subtle handover, outgoing Fendi CEO Serge Brunschwig was also present. He will leave Rome after more than six years, a period during which Fendi averaged double-digit annual growth.

Brunschwig declined to indicate where he was headed, or to comment on rumors that LVMH was considering replacing Kim Jones. Rumors exacerbated by the house’s decision to cancel the Fendi haute couture show during the next Parisian season at the end of June. And further fueled last week by John Galliano’s decision to remove all his posts from his Instagram account, despite his 1.5 million followers. Igniting a firestorm of internet chatter that he could head to Rome and take the reins of Fendi.

Asked about the Galliano rumors, Brunschwig narrowed his eyes and dismissed the idea with a laugh: “Ohhh, you better ask Paris about that.” »

Stay tuned.