The skin is like the rest of our body: it ages. There are actions to take to slow down this aging, such as drinking water or avoiding smoking. But are dedicated creams really effective? Answer in Capital Santé with Caroline Fontenoy and Dr. Bernadette Blouard, dermatologist.
Bernadette Blouard is head of the dermatology department at the Clinique Saint-Luc de Bouge. Invited by Caroline Fontenoy in the magazine Capital Santé, the doctor answered a question that we have all asked ourselves: are face creams really beneficial?
“Well, yes and no,” she says, qualifying. “It is important to moisturize your skin properly. When my young patients ask me about specific creams, I give them the choice. It is not an obligation.”
What is also recommended by the dermatologist interviewed is to have a day cream with sun protection, i.e. an SPF, even in winter.
To choose the right cream, however, Bernadette Blouard recommends looking at the active ingredients. “We still have to make a reservation about the way the cream is composed.” The prices of these products, which vary, do not necessarily have an effective value. In all cases, you should refer to professionals. “You need to get advice from the right people, especially dermatologists since it’s part of their job, and also pharmacists who are generally very knowledgeable about it and who will be able to guide the patient well.”
What about hyaluronic acid?
In recent years, it is a component that is promoted in advertisements. But what is it really? “There is something to eat and drink”, answers the specialist. “When it says ‘hyaluronic acid’ on the packaging, it means everything and nothing, because what you need to know is that the hyaluronic acid composition is not necessarily going to be valid for you and it depends on the size of the molecule that we are going to introduce into the cream.” Not all molecules actually penetrate the skin. “You could give yourself a clear conscience by using a run-of-the-mill cream, saying to yourself ‘Great, I’ll put in hyaluronic acid’, and in fact it’s no use at all, because you’ve come across a molecule that’s too big and doesn’t penetrate the skin well.”which will therefore mislead you.
What you need to know to preserve your skin:
- Dermatoporosis is a condition where the skin becomes thinner with age, similar to osteoporosis for bones, caused by a depletion of hyaluronic acid in the skin
- Three factors contribute to this phenomenon: the sun, which causes a lot of skin damage, tobacco, which seriously damages the skin, and taking cortisone, which weakens the skin in patients suffering from chronic illnesses.
- Menopause also contributes to skin aging in women due to the decline in hormones
- A healthy lifestyle (healthy diet, hydration, sun protection) helps preserve the skin
- Moisturizers are important, but their effectiveness depends on the active ingredients, including hyaluronic acid, whose molecular size determines its ability to penetrate the skin.
- Collagen, whether consumed or applied, has uncertain effectiveness, requiring caution
- Botox injections and cosmetic surgery can help, but you have to be well informed and choose qualified professionals. They are more curative than preventive.
- In summary, there is no miracle against aging, but preventive actions can help preserve the skin.
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