The return to the forefront of this historic Provencal estate

“The mixed air arriving from the Durance valley allows low temperatures to be absorbed, down to – 3 or – 4 degrees.», explains Guillaume Vidal, at the start of a chilly month of May. The manager of the Château La Coste wine estate talks about this amphitheater opening onto the north: “A situation that favors balance, the natural acidity which transforms into something salty and aniseed.»

“Here we benefit from several exposures and different altitudes since there is a 100 meter difference between the highest point of the domain, at 450 meters above sea level, and the lowest. Fruity wines are rather made at the bottom, with a better water reserve and a greater depth of soil. Intermediate terraces produce more structured wines. The upper parts are dedicated to plot selections.»The estate has been certified organic since 2008. And 120 hectares are now certified biodynamic (Demeter) for 2022. «Here we nourish the life of the soil which releases nutrients for the vines. The soil is more resilient and the vintage effect is less significant. Biodynamics leads to an increase in the vigor of the vines.»

Nature as far as the eye can see

There was little here when Mara McKillen discovered the site, but the essentials were there: vines, valleys, nature as far as the eye could see. A little further up, the remains of the old village of Puy-Sainte-Réparade, damaged by an earthquake at the beginning of the last century. Impressed by the discovery of these rugged landscapes of vines and forest, she talks about it to her little brother Patrick who comes to visit the place, also falls under the spell and decides to purchase it. Patrick “Paddy” McKillen has been searching for his farm, the places where he will develop his agricultural operation and he has the means to achieve his ambitions. Mara and Paddy will continue to cultivate the vines that have grown here since Roman times, taking care to refine the quality of the wines.

Guillaume Vidal joined them a little less than five years ago. The Château La Coste wines for which he is responsible are available with the great vintages as well as with the intermediate ranges which are the Château and Pentes Douces collections. We taste the Rosé d’un nuit 2023, made in partnership with local winegrowers. “With these wines, we seek to have substance without being gastronomic.» The juice is pleasant, with a nose of peach and apricot, a nice length. The Château Rosé 2023 is more timid on the nose. But the gourmet side expected with this type of juice persists. Salinity is also preserved.

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The Grand Vin Rosé 2023 takes us into another world. Here is a 90% Grenache, a pale wine. The fruit is less present there. The touch of acidity is provided by the Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. It serves as the backbone of this wine, links the bitters and aromas. Over time, this freshness transforms into salinity. Out of curiosity, we taste the Grand Vin Rosé 2022. Compared to the following vintage, the anise touch has become stronger. A slight oxidation provides more volume. The slight acidity gives length. This is a more evolved wine in which, among other things, we detect some tobacco notes.

Let’s move on to the whites, which represent 30% of La Coste’s production. Les Pentes Douces 2023 is a coated wine. No doubt this is linked to vermentino, always picked very ripe in the Mediterranean region. Sauvignon provides power. This wine is not exuberant however. The Grand Vin Blanc 2022 – chardonnay and vermentino – is both more brioche and more elegant.

Sale exclusively at the castle

Château La Coste now produces a natural red wine called Ad Fontes, from Cinsault, Syrah and Grenache, without sulfite. “With living wine, you can have good or bad surprises», explains Guillaume Vidal. Ad Fontes 2022 releases all the aromas of the world to the nose. In the mouth, it reveals a nice tannic structure but we regret a slightly cloudy texture, specific to this type of beverage. The experience remains conclusive. La Coste only produced 2,000 bottles of this first Ad Fontes, on sale exclusively at the château boutique. With its latest vintages, the property has proven that it is capable of producing great wines. Proof of this new viticultural commitment, a new aging cellar is under construction: “It will allow ten vintages to be stored», explains Guillaume Vidal. This is getting very serious.