After the logs, the toasts and the cups, will you have another slice of galette des rois? But this year, its price will once again increase slightly. “Although it depends on the type of pancakes – there are dozens and dozens – and the quality, we can reasonably estimate that the share will increase by 10 to 30 cents on average,” says Paul Boivin, general delegate of the Federation of Bakery Companies (FEB). Before qualifying: “The consumer will not necessarily realize this increase. In any case, it is in essence a luxury product that we buy once or twice a year, a pleasure purchase. »
According to an Ifop survey, carried out for the FEB, 92% of French people eat pancakes at this time of the year (including 64% several times). Among them, 14% of consumers opt for homemade products, half (51%) buy from bakeries and 34% from supermarkets.
“Even if it means taking just one, it might as well be really good!” »
“There is something for all budgets,” reminds Paul Boivin. “Even with a small income, and without being very high-end, you can have fun. You can find very affordable and very good quality cakes in supermarkets which cost between 4 and 12 euros. »
The fact remains that for some consumers, the price is nevertheless excessive. For Aurélien, 33, from Strasbourg, who chooses the artisan baker: “There will surely be one at the table, for tradition. But probably no more, given the price increase over the past several years. We will choose it from a baker, their quality being much superior in taste to those in supermarkets. And even if it means only taking one, it might as well be really good! » In Novalaise (Savoie), Évelyne, 67, says she bought one Thursday morning from her baker. “30 euros for eight shares. So, I'm going to put my apron back on and make the following ones myself! It's getting a little too expensive. » Aline, 38 years old, from Bethoncourt (Doubs), now favors homemade “even though we have a good baker near us. The pleasure will be even greater and at a lower cost.”
Up to 15% of bakers' annual turnover
On the professional side, the rise in prices is being suffered, and is having an impact. “It’s really on the baker’s side that the increase will be felt with a very significant shortfall,” explains Paul Boivin. Because this development is partly explained by manufacturing costs, such as the rise in wages or the price of energy “which remains at a very high level for bakers”, but above all by the surge in raw materials. Including the main ingredient of the pancake: butter. “Butter production is decreasing while there is more and more demand, particularly in Asia and China, which consume a lot of it. The markets are very tight and it is a very expensive raw material. » At the end of September, the price of a tonne of butter cost 8,180 euros… compared to 4,260 a year earlier. Not to mention eggs, also in high demand, and which have to deal with “avian flu which is decimating farms”.
For bakers, these king cake weeks are a very important period, according to Paul Boivin. “This represents between 10 and 15% of their annual turnover and this is what they start the year with. It only lasts a few weeks, so don't miss out. » While warning his sector. “The trend is still towards products premium in bakeries and supermarkets. And the justice of the peace remains the consumer, if he considers that the quality in relation to the price is not there… Beware of anyone who does anything. »
Butter becomes problematic for the profession
Artisanal and industrial bakers are experiencing an extremely complicated situation regarding butter. “We have already been warning about the explosion in the price of butter, in value and volume, for two or even three years. Sometimes, at certain times of the year, we have difficulty obtaining supplies,” explains Paul Boivin. Even more so with an equally difficult situation for farmers. “You should know that milk producers earn less money from what we call by-products, butter or even children's milk powder, than from processing them into everyday milk or cheese. »
Except that apart from the galette, other flagship products of French baking, rich in butter, are very popular. For example, according to the Speak Snacking study published by Strateg'eat in 2024, pain au chocolat is the sweet snack that 34% of French people surveyed prefer to eat outside of home. Next comes the croissant (28%), or, a little further on, éclairs (24%), apple turnovers (22%) and raisin breads (20%).
“Some are now turning to plants to replace butter or reduce it but it requires a lot of work to maintain the taste quality, the final result, the pleasure, and above all the profitability obviously,” concludes the general delegate of the FEB. “We cannot increase the price of a pastry indefinitely, there comes a point when the consumer no longer wants to keep up. » As for the cake finally.
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