Paris 11th: the wave of Marine and Yann | Gilles Pudlowski’s blog

Erso: vague in Provençal. Under this cryptic name Marine Bert and Yan Placet, 58 years old between them, have created a simple and chic place, with its beautiful raw wooden tables, its cloth napkins, its unbeatable market menu at lunch, its wide open kitchen with its counter. Both worked at Pantruche in the 9th arrondissement, but also at Guy Savoy and Akrame in Paris, Anne-Sophie Pic in Valence, Cédric Béchade in Saint-Pée-sur-Nivelle for him, at Lutetia and at the Alcazar for her , playing a gastronomic menu, fine, light, creative and very tasty.

Pot au feu terrine © GP

Flame-cooked mackerel, tender beets with fennel shavings and lovage mayonnaise, pot au feu terrine with horseradish mayo, mustard seed pickles, rack of pork with sweet potato mousseline, tender leeks , fennel shavings, mustard seeds, dried apricot condiment and meat juice or even pollack with its mousseline cauliflower with turmeric, its roasted top carrots, its vinegared pink radishes, its white butter with savory demonstrate a real skill in cooking and seasoning.

Flame-cooked mackerel © GP

The portions, of course, are not huge, but quite sufficient for a devious and critical mind… like mine, bouncing from table to table. The desserts (cooked Granny Smith apple roll, chai mousse with Indian spices, apple and ginger ice cream or even chocolate and caper ganache with tarragon custard, chocolate tuile and vanilla ice cream) are the same high level.

Coalfish with cauliflower and turmeric mousseline © GP

And the choice of wines by the glass demonstrates the same good sense, such as the fruity and robust “Zinzin” from Matthieu Barret Visan Côtes du Rhône-villages or, on the same register, the Morgon la Chanaise from Domaine Piron. And, as a nice ultimate surprise, these nuggets are priced without excess (7 and 8 €), which stands in stark contrast to the current fashion which means multiplying the purchase price of wine by 5 or 6, if not much more! In short, here is a new house, tasty and generous.

Apple roll, Indian spices © GP

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Erso