It was one of the most anticipated events for fashionistas: the Frenchman Jacquemus made his return to Parisian fashion week on Sunday after five years of absence with an intimate fashion show, bringing together an audience of stars.
Hollywood actress Pamela Anderson, South African singer Tyla and fashion popess Anna Wintour were among the hand-picked guests, alongside French actors François Civil, Laetitia Casta, Audrey Tautou, Judith Godrèche and YouTuber Inoxtag .
Organized in the early afternoon in the apartment of the architect Auguste Perret (1874-1954), a specialist in reinforced concrete, in the west of Paris, the parade was broadcast in the early evening on the Jacquemus site.
A show during which a most sophisticated mixed collection was unveiled worn by star models of the 1990s/2000s Christy Turlington and Eva Herzigova, as well as Liya Kebede and Doutzen Kroes.
Called “La Croisière”, this new line is made up of large flared dresses cinched at the waist with wide leather belts in a very 50s style, mermaid dresses, evening dresses worthy of the red carpet or dresses long striped ones, one of the designer’s passions, who boasts his Provençal heritage.
Simon Porte Jacquemus also revisits the feminine pantsuit, with very loose pants matched with a very fitted jacket with shoulder pads. All worn with pumps with pointed toes and small heels.
The men are also very elegant, dressed in white suits marked at the waist, very loose or straight pleated pants and floor length pants, jacket and shorts sets or jumpsuits.
A collection which comes mainly in white, black and red, without forgetting a few touches of yellow, notably with a banana patterned dress.
– An expected return –
This show marks Jacquemus’ return to the official Fashion Week calendar. In recent years, the designer has had the habit of showing whenever and wherever he wants, whether in a lavender field in the South of France, in the park of the Palace of Versailles or even under the sun of Capri.
A favorite of celebrities, Simon Porte Jacquemus is also a favorite of the anonymous crowd who crowded into the fan zone in front of the parade venue on Sunday, braving the rain and the cold.
Once the show was over, the designer made an appearance at the window, haranguing the crowd who chanted “Simon, Simon, Simon!”.
-Launched in 2009, the Jacquemus brand has enjoyed unprecedented success, driven by aggressive marketing and a community of loyal followers. The company now has a boutique on Avenue Montaigne in Paris, one in London and one in New York.
– Chic and elegance at Lanvin –
Another highly anticipated event, Peter Copping presented on Sunday evening at the end of this men’s Fashion Week his first collection for the historic French house Lanvin, absent for two years from the official calendar, a mixed parade placed under the sign of chic and elegance.
For women, the dress is worn long and fitted, in wool or velvet, sometimes with sequins, with dizzying low backs for the evening, and the long, straight skirt, slit behind, with a fitted jacket or matching overcoat . All accompanied by long leather gloves.
For men, the designer has imagined narrow city jogging pants that stop above the ankle, just like the loose pleated pants offered, high-necked sweaters and large raincoats and city coats in wool or cotton. leather.
In terms of palette, black and gray rub shoulders with dark purple, pumpkin orange, in a very seventies inspiration, or even a deep red.
At the end of the parade, Peter Copping appeared to loud applause from the Pavillon Gabriel, near Place de la Concorde.
Appointed in June 2024, the Briton had previously worked for Sonia Rykiel and for more than ten years alongside Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton, before collaborating with the houses Nina Ricci, Oscar de la Renta and Balenciaga.
Haute Couture week will follow on Monday, a Parisian specificity, with headliners Dior, Chanel, Schiaparelli and even the return of Valentino.
mdv/may/jco
