Under what conditions will mountaineers be able to continue to climb Mont-Blanc by your normal route ? The report from the General Inspectorate of the Environment and Sustainable Development, which was published on December 2, highlights the need to develop shelters which mark this high mountain route. But it does not address questions linked to mountain developments, particularly on the Bosses ridge or the Goûter corridor.
A study which addresses the future of equipment on the Mont-Blanc normal route
This document was requested by DREAL Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes, the mayor of Saint-Gervais-les-Bains and the prefect of Haute-Savoie. It is published in a context of high attendance at the highest classified natural site in Europe and the effects of climate change on the summits and glaciers of the Mont-Blanc massif.
These two phenomena impact the main mountain route which allows you to climb onto the roof of the Mont Blanc. That is to say the normal route which leaves from Nid d’Aigle, in the commune of Saint-Gervais, passes through the Tête Rousse refuge, that of Goûter, then the Dôme du Goûter, the Vallot refuge and finally the ridge Bosses.
In its premise, this 34-page report focuses solely on the question of the equipment which punctuates the normal route of Mont-Blanc. That is to say the Rognes and Vallot cabins, as well as the Nid d’Aigle, Tête-Rousse and Goûter refuges.
This report was built from numerous discussions with local stakeholders. It is intended to “ become a reference document »since it “presents a diagnosis of the situation and outlines perspectives and major directions for this emblematic sector of the site ».
The document has been variously commented on…
Jean-Marc Peillex, the mayor of Saint-Gervaisdenounces “ an ecological disaster » in shelter management. The elected official writes on his X account: “ Finally the truth comes out. I’ve been saying it for years, everything is done backwards” he comments. For the mayor of Saint-Gervais, “ We are no longer a refuge, it has become a hotel. And some people who climb Mont Blanc are no longer mountaineers but tourists.”
The document highlights the need to conduct a “ long-term reflection on the future of the equipment along the Mont-Blanc normal route ».
Here’s what it contains:
A new future for the Goûter refuge
The new Goûter refugelocated at more than 3,800 meters above sea level on the normal Mont-Blanc route, always poses problems. This refuge is a national and international symbol of mountaineering. The first cabin was built there in 1854.
The construction of the new, ultra-modern building was the subject of heated debate. It was inaugurated in 2014, after a 7 million euro high-altitude project. But the advanced technological choices that have been implemented to operate the Goûter refuge are not satisfactory…
“It’s hard to believe that such a recent building (10 years old) contains so many unfulfilled promises. Is it a question of poor workmanship, of maintenance carried out with too little rigor, or of initial errors in technological choices (for the three pillars of water, energy and sanitation) whose nature innovative was praised? ” writing Thierry Boisseauxthe general rapporteur.
And the latter summarizes his findings: “ the solutions called for here, implemented on board confined spaces such as submarines, work very poorly ».
The rapporteur argues that “ the scale of the problems is such that it seems essential to me that a detailed and exhaustive audit be carried out on the technical functioning of this shelter ».
It is also indicated that the shelter should be able to be configured differently depending on the season and whether it is guarded or not. A safety space, in the event of evacuation of the refuge, must also be created. For the moment, it is the old refuge which also serves as an evacuation site in the event of a fire…
« This project will require complex technical studies (structure, water, sanitation, etc.) and significant financial resources. » notes for its part the French Federation of Alpine Mountain Clubs (FFCAM) which manages the refuges.
Dismantle the old Goûter refuge?
The report also highlights the need to dismantle the old Goûter refuge.
On this point, the FFCAM thinks “ that it would be inappropriate from an environmental and economic point of view to demolish a building in good condition which fulfills its role during 8 months of non-custodial care. It is also unrealistic in view of the volumes available and technically very difficult to conceive of setting up a collection volume inside the Goûter refuge.
“Building a new building closer is an idea, but it is also very complex and would require in-depth studies, administrative procedures on a classified site and significant funding. Its winter access would also be more exposed to avalanche risks. » says the FFCAM.
An increased role for the Tête Rousse refuge
This report validates the removal of the base camp, around the Tête Rousse refuge. Faced with the crowds, many mountaineers camp there. This ” camping d’altitude » was previously found around the Goûter refuge.
The report on the future of the Mont-Blanc normal route also highlights the need to expand the Tête Rousse refuge« in order to harmonize its reception capacity with that of the Gouter refuge “. Tête Rousse remains the last stop before attacking the more delicate part of the Goûter corridor and then the ascent towards the refuge of the same name.
No change for the Rognes and Vallot cabins
On the other hand, the report writes that it sees no need to change the use of the Rognes de Vallot cabins. “ The Rognes cabin like the Vallot cabin are unguarded buildings that can accommodate mountaineers in distress. » underlines the report. “ The Vallot cabin is also used by the PGHM for its missions » adds this same document.
No overview of the ascent of Mont Blanc
This report seeks to highlight the failures of high mountain refuges, but does not address the subject of ascent of Mont Blanc by its normal route as a whole.
This is what the FFCAM regrets. “ In the longer term, we are aware of the need to continue our in-depth reflection, with all the stakeholders of Mont Blanc, on the ascent of Mont Blanc on a committed mountaineering route and the role of a refuge at 3800 meters above sea level in an isolated and classified site. Moving forward without a master plan including an overall assessment of the technical and economic consequences of this or that development would be risky, not very responsible, and would endanger the activity of mountain professionals on this route.e” writes the FFCAM in a press release.
The report does not address the subject of changes in mountain conditions. Due to the movements of the glacier, the ascent of Mont-Blanc by the normal route has been more difficult since 2022. the Bosse ridges, the glacier has opened and makes the passage of mountaineers more difficult.
Stakes were placed there by the Saint-Gervais guides company. Mountain equipment that did not please the famous mountaineer Christophe Profit. The latter had removed them, because of his conception of mountaineering. He had to answer for his actions in court…
This report also does not address the question of the high use of the Mont-Blanc normal route. Indeed, the 4810 meters of the highest peak in Europe attract around 20,000 climbers each year, mainly in summer. Mont Blanc remains a gateway for many to mountaineering, or for well-known personalities like Inoxtag, who climbed it before going to Everest.
But the ascent of Mont-Blanc which has the false reputation of being easy “ generates practices and attitudes less and less compatible with the spirit of mountaineering” regrets the mayor of Saint-Gervais. The FFCAM also recalls that “rclimbing Mont Blanc is a dream for many ».
The Federation of Alpine Clubs recalls the role of mountain refuges
This report also relaunches the notion of mountain refuge. The FFCAM reminds “ that a refuge is above all a place of shelter, of practice, of awareness, with enormous constraints, which certainly makes it possible to achieve a summit, but which also provides an extraordinary experience, different from what one can live in a valley or on the side of the road. This experience makes community life possible, meeting others, commitment, surpassing oneself. It provides emotions and wonder ».
