Cbelieve it or not, Roberto Coin, a former hotel professional, knew nothing about jewelry before founding his house in 1996. However, today it rivals the biggest: 146 million euros in turnover, 400 points of sale spread across 60 countries, a host of new products – in 18-carat gold and precious stones – offered each year, not to mention an influence exercised at the highest level within the World Diamond Council.
This industrial organization established the Kimberley Process, which aims to eradicate the financing of conflicts in West Africa with revenues linked to diamond mining. “I am one of the founders”, recognizes the affable Venetian. Which specifies: “I am also a member of the Responsible Jewelery Council which was created to advance ethical, social, environmental practices throughout the gold, platinum and diamond jewelry supply chain. »
A family affair
A pragmatic self-taught entrepreneur, the entrepreneur explains his success by his initial desire to control the entire creative process at a time when the reappropriation of know-how, displayed with great fanfare today, was not commonplace. “I very quickly decided to found a factory in Northern Italy, in Vicenza, which is the city of gold par excellence. » The region, at the beginning of the last century, had around 800 factories. A handful are still active.
In this adventure, Roberto Coin is not alone. His wife Pilar, a Swiss financier of Spanish origin met in Rome, plays a decisive role. “My eldest son Carlo has complete knowledge of jewelry making. My daughter Paola works in the quality control department; my youngest son Kevin is involved in the finance and marketing department which is managed by my wife. »
Second pillar of success: the early arrival in the United States, where the brand now occupies sixth place in the ranking of jewelers in terms of retail sales. American customers are enthusiastic about a signature which is expressed in the generosity of volumes, the sensuality of gourmet cabochons, the solar work of the gold twists. The house adorns each of its jewels with a hidden ruby, echoing an Egyptian legend according to which wearing the precious stone close to the skin promotes longevity and happiness.
Taille Cento
“From the start, I was convinced of the relevance of my vision, which was based on two axes: on the one hand, to offer a varied creative offer, with themes specific to reaching all women and, on the other hand, to highlight focus on manufacturing innovation. » While respecting the ancient artisanal tradition of the lost-cast wax process, the workshops use the latest generation machines which chisel more than a ton of gold each year. Less expensive than a classic solitaire, a diamond cut, called Cento, has also been developed.
At 79 years old, the designer seems inexhaustible: he participates in countless events each year to support his retailers (including a costume ball, a Venetian tradition, organized in Riyadh in March) and does not hold back any challenge. The main thing being to guarantee the sustainability and development of the brand: the Watches of Switzerland group has in fact just acquired, on May 8, the entire capital for 130 million dollars, while leaving the family a place At board. Enough to facilitate the upcoming opening of a store in Paris. “The location has been found and the inauguration is imminent. We are now looking for prime locations in Milan, Madrid and Marbella. »
