To save the family business, two sisters launch into mozzarella made in Landes

In Tilh, the EARL (1) du Housse stable, about twenty kilometers from Dax, is slowly coming back to life. And this to the great happiness of Marc Delas, retired farmer. Recently, his two daughters returned to the family farm nestled between the Chalois valleys, accompanied by 13 buffaloes, five buffaloes and one buffalo.

After growing up surrounded by dairy cows, Delphine and Adeline stayed in the cattle business by launching into this breeding business. But no more being dependent on cooperatives and large groups, make way for on-site processing and direct sales.

Under the brand Le Champ des bufflonnes, the Delas family plans to market within a few months mozzarella, burrata and camembert made from buffalo milk – reputed to be richer in fat and protein, but also tastier than that of cows – produced entirely by hand. Landes family farm. And why not, secondly, also offer meat, and even cold meats with buffalo sausage.

Covid effect

The project was initiated by Delphine, 32, the eldest in the family. As for others, the Covid pandemic has been synonymous with upheaval. Because of the confinements, Delphine sees her professional activity in boarding houses for dogs and cats decreasing. So, the plan to return to the family farm, which had always remained in the back of his mind, resurfaced.

A mozzarella lover, she looked into its manufacturing process and discovered buffalo breeding. A rather atypical activity and not very widespread in France. He likes the idea. She then passed her professional agricultural business manager certificate (BPREA) with the aim of launching Le Champ des bufflonnes.

The youngest, until then a road driver, joined the project along the way. For Adeline, 30, it was professional experience working with farmers in the Basque Country that reconciled her with this activity. “I took great pleasure in seeing farmers make a decent living from their profession,” she confides. In the end, it wasn't the sheep that I liked, it was coming back to the farm. »

“Always seen struggling”

Determined not to abandon the family farm several generations old, the two sisters do not want to toil like their parents. “We’ve always seen them struggle. For us, it was unthinkable to work so much just to survive, says Delphine. But we always said to ourselves that one day or another, and in one way or another, we would resume operations.”

They kept their word. Until also winning over the parents, Marie-Christine and Marc, still integrated into the EARL. The entire Delas family is now passionate about these funny black cattle endemic to Asia. The whole family is almost as amazed at knowing these animals as Delphine's youngest, Olivia (14 months), already well involved in life on the farm.

Since November 16, 2024, the EARL du Housse has welcomed 13 buffaloes, five buffaloes and a buffalo named Obama into its stable, which remained abandoned for several years. With her experience as a heavy goods vehicle driver, Adeline was responsible for picking up the herd scattered in Brittany, in the Gers and in Mesplède, in Béarn. Buffalo farms are a niche in France. The Delas family is currently the only one in the Landes to raise them.

Below the stable, part of the 60 hectares of the farm will be used to grow cereals to feed the small herd. The family is still learning about the tastes of these cattle with their beautiful wavy horns. For now, Obama and his ladies are completely satisfied with hay. “We haven’t finished learning about them,” says Delphine. On the other hectares of meadow with bodies of water, the buffaloes will be able to graze and wade. “Like crocodiles, they love to get stuck,” explains Marc Delas.

Summer markets

Just a month after the arrival of the buffaloes on the farm, the two sisters already have a helping hand. Relationships and trust are established. The buffaloes roll on their backs to have their bellies scratched. “They are animals of endless curiosity and so docile,” notes Marc, in comparison to his former intensive cows. Admiring the new generation of farmers that is emerging, he fully supports the project of his daughters who themselves define the price of the products according to the cost price.

Currently all pregnant, the buffaloes must begin milking in the spring. In the meantime, Delphine and Adeline are practicing making cheese with cow's milk. By the time the first drops of white gold from the buffaloes arrive, the processing laboratory will have been set up on the farm.

The Delas family hopes to go to the markets of Peyrehorade and the Landes coast from the summer of 2025. Farm sales are also planned, offering the opportunity to taste freshly made mozzarella, still hot. “It’s even better than the cold one. It awakens the taste buds, with a sweet side,” makes Adeline salivate. A little more patience before enjoying.

(1) Limited liability agricultural operation.