“To the Champs-Élysées!” In the sun, in the rain, at noon or at midnight…” Joe Dassin’s song resonates between the meat carcasses, echoed at the top of their lungs by 600 guests. It's early, very early, this Thursday morning. However, at the Rungis market (Val-de-Marne), we are already uncorking wine bottles, tasting sirloin and lamb chops in a warehouse at 4°C. Because this November 21, meat wholesalers have decided to organize an XXL banquet within their own pavilion to celebrate Beaujolais Nouveau from 6 a.m.
They joined forces with Canon Français, a young company specializing in XXL French banquets. Their credo: defend the land and heritage by organizing giant tables in exceptional or unusual places. They donate part of the funds to the preservation of historic sites: castles, abbeys, etc.
Tiphaine, Jordan, Philippine and Pauline came from Paris and Versailles (Yvelines). “The alarm went off at 4:05, 4:07, 4:09…” Philippine laughs. “We are here for the atmosphere, the meat – which is excellent – and to discover the MIN (national interest market) de Rungis,” confides Jordan, 31, while helping himself to a portion of aligot and a glass of wine, when it is time for breakfast. “Beaujolais is not the best wine, but with good meat and friends, it becomes very good! » smiled Pauline.
“French heritage and French meat, two values dear to Rungis”
While an ola begins on the tables, a pharmacist from Essonne finishes her plate. “I'm going to work afterwards, it's going to be hard to last until 8 p.m.,” she jokes. “The price was only 8 euros, while other banquets at the Canon Français cost 80 euros. A real good plan, underlines his sidekick, from Chilly-Mazarin (Essonne). And then, it was near our house, we couldn't miss it! »
The idea of such an event came from Christophe Deplanche, president of the meat wholesalers' union at the MIN in Rungis. “Every year, we made Beaujolais Nouveau. But one day when the market was closed, I saw this large line empty in the pavilion. What if we put tables there for Beaujolais? I contacted the Canon Français, a group of young people who defend French heritage and French meat, two values dear to Rungis. »
The first banquet, last year, brought together 500 guests; that of 2024 around 600, with customers, suppliers, site employees, general public… “This is the big moment for Rungis,” applauds Stéphane Layani, CEO of Semmaris, the company which manages the MIN. We are the first to be authorized to sell Beaujolais Nouveau, which is why we celebrate before the others. » The first tastings, however, took place at midnight sharp in Beaujeu (Rhône), the historic capital of this vineyard, located an hour from Lyon.
“We introduce our professions”
“We are not used to having so many guests, but it’s great, because we introduce people to meat and our professions,” smiles Christophe Deplanche, who hopes to see inflation on his prices stagnate in order to preserve the volumes of sale, “and so the breeders, many of whom are in difficulty in the country. »
On the stage, the musicians play a series of hits, bell ringers sound the hunting horn, the president of the market performs a few dance steps. With the help of alcohol, the atmosphere is relaxed, festive, almost euphoric. This breakfast like no other allows some to penetrate the mysterious depths of the largest pantry in Île-de-France.
“Rungis is more modern and less old-fashioned than the image I had of it,” confides a participant, with dark circles around his eyes. Next door, his friend, a technician on the SNCF construction sites at night, came directly after work. “And he, over there, chose yet another option: sleepless night! He didn't go to bed at all! » laughs his friend. For them, Beaujolais will surely mean a well-deserved nap.
