When Brad Pitt wore Vacheron Constantin’s 222 luxury watch at Wimbledon in 2023, he probably had no idea of the impact it would have. A watch well known to watch enthusiasts, this 222 had until now not necessarily had the success it deserved. However, it is quite a marvel that the 61-year-old actor has undoubtedly contributed to putting back at the center of the watchmaking chessboard.
The 1970s were a turbulent time for the watch industry. The prestigious Swiss watchmakers of the old guard closed their doors in the face of the battery revolution. Sales of inexpensive quartz watches from Japan were soaring. Looking for a strategy to stay relevant in the midst of this radical change, the holy trinity of Swiss watchmakers – Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin – all came up with the same solution: a sporty-looking watch, made from steel to be worn every day, but designed and manufactured according to the high-end standards of Swiss luxury.
The models launched by AP and Patek at this time have become two of the most famous models in watchmaking history: the Royal Oak and the Nautilus, respectively. However, Vacheron Constantin’s contribution remained in the annals of watch forums and never enjoyed the same success as the other two.
1977, a mixed launch for the Vacheron Constantin 222
In 1977, Vacheron launched the 222, its own robust and prestigious tool watch, to mark the 222e anniversary of the company. The watch was originally only produced for eight years – a few thousand examples at most, of which only a few hundred are believed to have been made in steel. With such figures, the 222 could only be a true underground hero. Until today. After having reissued the gold version with fanfare in 2022, Vacheron is finally resurrecting the 222 in steel (sold for 35,000 euros compared to more than 80,000 for the gold version), the watch which should have become an icon.
If the 222 shares its DNA with the Royal Oak and the Nautilus, it differs in almost every detail. These two models are the work of Gérald Genta, the most famous watch designer in history, and are inspired by his affinity for everything related to boating: the Royal Oak resembles a scuba diving helmet, while the Nautilus imitates a ship’s porthole. For the 222, Vacheron called on Jörg Hysek, a young man in his twenties who has not yet proven himself and who imagined a more subtle design which does not seem to smell of salt water. Hysek integrated the bracelet into a less curved case than that of the Nautilus. Unlike the exposed screws of the Royal Oak, he gave the bezel a serrated design. What most differentiates the 222 from other watches in its category is the few examples found in nature. And when we see one show up, it’s either for more than $200,000 at an auction, or on the wrists of elite collectors like… Brad Pitt.
Vacheron Constantin 222, a timeless luxury watch
Although it never reached critical mass in its day, the 222’s relatively limited appeal is what makes this model’s return for 2025 so exciting. While other luxury sports watches are like characters from the Marvel universe, as familiar and famous to casual fans as they are to die-hard fans, the 222 is the sign of a more erudite collector. Vacheron has retained one of the most important assets for creating a successful watch: a true rarity. Since the 90s, the brand has satisfied customers hungry for sports watches with its Overseas models, while keeping the 222 in its emergency case.
Today, with the release of the steel 222, Vacheron shatters the glass and lets the icon emerge virtually intact since its debut in 77. The watch has not been riddled with unnecessary complications. Even the size remains unchanged: a svelte 37mm, which happens to be the diameter most vintage-obsessed collectors are looking for these days.
What is surprising about this release is that it did not happen sooner. Luxury sports watches have been the most dominant category among collectors for most of the last decade. Throughout this time, Vacheron has kept this piece in its archives. The gold 222 was an immediate success, driving up prices of vintage models at auction, but it failed to highlight what makes this watch special. For this, Vacheron Constantin had to return to the piece called by the holy trinity in the 70s. It worked at the time. It works even better today.
