5 Expert Tips for Buying Sustainable Jeans

Blue jeans are an iconic American icon. From humble origins as rugged workwear, it has become a daily wardrobe essential that has influenced culture around the world. Known for their durability and versatility, a good pair of jeans can last for years, even decades.

But not all jeans are made the same. This guide will help you find jeans that will live up to their heritage.

1. Check the composition of the fabric

Traditionally, jeans are made of denim, a 100% cotton fabric with a unique twill weave, giving it a diagonal ridged texture that makes it more durable than other fabrics. Denim is also quite stiff, so today it is common to add Lycra or Spandex to give it some flexibility and stretch.

This means that the first thing to pay attention to when purchasing a new pair of jeans is the synthetic fiber content.

“A good pair should be at least 98 percent cotton, with a light blend of elastane for comfort,” says Saffron King, head stylist at women’s clothing boutique Blue Bungalow. “Avoid jeans with a high percentage of synthetic fibers, as they tend to wear out more quickly. »

2. Choose a heavier weight

Then there’s the weight of denim, which is measured in ounces (oz) per yard. “Aim for denim that’s at least 12 to 16oz, which indicates a denser weave and better durability,” suggests King. Heavier denim generally lasts longer. You can check on the label if it is heavy, medium or light denim, and opt for heavier jeans.

3. Look for tight seams and rivets

Although the weave of denim is one of the main elements contributing to the durability of jeans, the stitching and rivets are also important.

“This is where the craftsmanship is most evident,” says Scott Liebenberg, CEO of Tapered, a brand specializing in men’s clothing. “Seams should be tight, even and free of fraying. Pay particular attention to areas that receive a lot of stress, such as the crotch and inner thigh.

Rivets deserve a special mention, as they are the additional element that, around 150 years ago, marked the invention of the iconic “blue jeans”.

Around 1870, a frustrated wife asked her local tailor in Reno, Nevada, if he could find a way to make her husband’s work pants more durable. It was then that Latvian-born tailor Jacob Davis decided to add metal rivets to the corners of the pockets and at the base of the fly to reinforce them. It was a success and Davis said to himself that he should patent his invention, but he did not have the money to do so. So he wrote to Levi Strauss, a German immigrant who was his denim supplier, to partner with him, and that’s what they did. “The secret to these pants is the rivets I put in these pockets,” reads Davis’s letter to Strauss, quoted in “Everybody’s Named: A Biography of Levi Strauss.” The rest, as the saying goes, is history.

These little rivets always make the difference in the quality and durability of jeans. “Premium jeans have metal rivets at stress points and sturdy zippers,” says King. “These small details can significantly improve the lifespan of jeans.

4. Choose darker shades

The color of the jean can also be an indication of its durability. According to Michelle Barrett, costume designer, personal stylist and founder of Capsule Closet Stylist, lighter shades often indicate that the fabric has been more heavily treated. “The processes used can already damage the fabric somewhat, so it’s best to stick to darker shades,” she explains.

5. Consider raw or selvedge denim

For an even higher level of sustainability, “consider investing in raw or selvedge denim,” Ms. King said. “These types of denim are often more durable and age very well over time,” she adds. “They may be more expensive, but they offer better long-term value.

Raw denim

Some denim enthusiasts consider raw denim to be the best, especially in terms of durability. Most jeans sold in stores are washed jeans, meaning the denim has been washed and possibly treated with chemical or physical abrasives during production, in order to soften the fabric, reduce subsequent shrinkage and create faded or damaged styles. Raw denim has not undergone this “pre-wash” process, which has advantages and disadvantages.

The most important thing is that because each wash weakens the fibers, raw denim will be more durable and last longer. The second advantage is more aesthetic than practical: unlike washed denim, which can have pre-established discolorations and gradients, raw denim starts from a blank canvas and fades depending on the movements of the person wearing it. Your jeans will become a unique reflection of yourself. Raw denim enthusiasts often use different methods to achieve sharper contrasts and impressive fades – for them it’s a personal project of expression and long-term reward.

There are a few things to consider before trying raw denim. Raw jeans are stiff and less comfortable than faded jeans, and you need to wear them several times to get used to them. They can also shrink up to 10% on the first wash, so keep that in mind when choosing your size.

Selvedge denim

The term “Selvedge”, which derives from “self-edge”, refers to the way in which the denim fabric was woven. Selvedge denim is woven on old-fashioned shuttle looms that produce a fabric with finished edges. These edges will not fray or require additional finishing work.

Although this automatic sewing offers some durability benefits, it is not the main reason why selvedge jeans are so popular. The main reason lies in the production process, which is slower and therefore more expensive than modern methods, making it unsuitable for mass production. Therefore, brands and designers who opt for selvedge denim do so to show off their craftsmanship. These jeans are made with greater attention to detail, typically using traditional techniques not only for weaving, but also for the dyeing process and design.

Japan has become the benchmark for selvedge denim because of the care and respect for tradition it brings to every stage of production. But you don’t have to go to Japan to get this precious fabric, as some American brands use it to make their jeans – look for Japanese selvedge denim in their composition information.

Where to start ?

Last year, Levi’s model 501 celebrated 150 years of production. It comes in several styles, some sewn from selvedge denim, making this style a classic for beginners. Buck Mason is another brand that prides itself on producing 100% American-made jeans made using traditional techniques.

Do not wash after each wear

When it comes to caring for your jeans, experts agree that you should only wash them when necessary. Some say to wash it after five or six uses, while others say you can wait until the tenth use unless it is visibly dirty. It depends on your lifestyle and the jeans themselves.

Although denim is a durable fabric, the fact that it is made of 100% (or almost) cotton makes it sensitive to washing. Washing it less often helps extend its lifespan.

You may have heard of a tip that takes a more extreme approach to jean care: freezing them instead of washing them. This practice may have been started by raw denim enthusiasts, who avoid washing their jeans as much as possible. Freezing jeans can help combat some odors, but according to experts, it doesn’t really work.

“Ah, the old denim myth. Freezing jeans to clean them is more of a gimmick than a clothing care strategy,” says Liebenberg. “Freezing doesn’t remove dirt or stains, but it can kill some odor-causing bacteria.”

According to Ms. King, it is best to spot clean and air the garment.

When it comes time to wash your jeans, be gentle. As with all cotton clothing, experts recommend washing them in cold water on a gentle cycle to prevent shrinkage. It is even better to wash it by hand.

Another problem with dyed cotton fabrics is that they can bleed in the wash, and the indigo dyes used in blue jeans are no exception.

“Cotton doesn’t hold color very well, so it fades over time,” says Barrett. “To avoid this, wash clothes inside out and at as low a temperature as possible. The more you wash cotton, the more it will fade, so only wash it when necessary.”

Forget the dryer

When drying, avoid high heat. “Air drying is your denim’s best friend,” Mr. Liebenberg said. “The heat from the dryer can shrink and warp them.” He recommends hanging jeans up or laying them flat to air dry.

When choosing and caring for your favorite jeans, keep in mind that you will not only be wearing pants, but also a piece of history. Every time you wear it, you keep an icon alive.