Seven years in New York
The story of Meryll Rogge is far from being a seamless one. Even if his taste for creation was perceptible from a very young age. “It seems that at three years old, I was drawing almost everywhere I went”she says.
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Coming from a “rather classic family for whom it was complicated to understand the artistic world”she had to make concessions when choosing her studies. It was only after obtaining a bachelor's degree in law in Namur that she was able to enroll at the very renowned Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. With her bachelor's degree in hand, at the age of 23, she left to do an internship in New York at Marc Jacobs, best known for its bags and accessories. She stayed there for 7 years. It's a “great learning period”. Not only does she love living in this city “which has almost the most cultural activities in the world”but in addition she dives with passion into this world of creation “where you have to imagine the most beautiful and interesting show. You have to make people dream. For a month and a half, we lock ourselves away and we only think about that. We're like in a bubble. It's is a job where you give your all, but of course it can be suffocating.”
At the age of 30, she received an offer from Belgian fashion star Dries Van Noten to become responsible for the “women's” collection. She stayed there for 4 years until the Spanish group Puig bought the Belgian fashion house. She keeps one foot in it by being a consultant for the range fragrance and beauty. These contracts are welcome to operate her brand which she created in March 2020. Because “having your brand requires big budgets“.
Like many stylists, she chooses her name. A name that fits perfectly with its brand “which plays strongly on the masculine and feminine aspect“. Because for her, “Meryll is a fairly feminine first name while Rogge has a fairly masculine sound”.
Internationally, Meryll Rogge has enjoyed some success in Asia, particularly in Japan and Korea. In the United States, she also has a loyal clientele who appreciate her style inspired by vintage clothing as much as by art objects or her observations in the streets of big cities.
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She uses agents to find stores that will display her creations. But his business is not yet profitable. “It’s the extras that keep the brand alive.” Which in no way alters his desire to continue and, above all, to grow. Hence his decision to “change structure and teams internationally” while in Belgium, she works with 3.5 full-time equivalents and around twenty freelancers during busy periods.
Less favorable situation
She has her head full of projects despite a year 2024 where “the situation was less favorable”. Which results in more complicated cash flow management. Its second phase of development will involve an offer in accessories and the launch of a web shop. “We really want to communicate strongly. In recent years, we have focused on brand making. The next step is to focus on the retail part, direct to consumer“. In short, the designer is taking the path of expansion. Like Dries Van Noten a few decades ago? The future will tell, of course.
This new chapter leaves no time for this mother of two young children to indulge in hobbies, her job already being one. A profession that she discusses a lot with her husband, Clement Van Vyve, who is also a young entrepreneur in addition to being “environmental psychologist”. Next to her throughout the interview via Teams, he makes an appearance on screen to explain how he relaunched, with his brother, the Meurisse chocolate brand. A brand “launched in 1845” by their ancestors. But that's another story…
Pieces in a museum in New York
Meryll Rogge is, among other things, known for her sweaters, what the stylist calls “knitwear”, which constitutes 30% of her collection. Production takes place in several European countries. In Belgium, she works with Libeko “which is an extraordinary workshop”. Meryll Rogge explains this diversification of production in particular by the desire to limit risk.
Prices for pieces can go up to 1,200 euros for a dress. These pieces are sold in 4 boutiques in Belgium including Renaissance (Antwerp) and Icon (Brussels). Some museums, including MOMU (Antwerp) and the Metropolitan Museum of Arts (New York), have recently acquired pieces for their permanent collections.
In a few dates
- November 23, 1984: birth of Meryll Rogge in Ghent.
- 2005-2008 : bachelor at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Fashion section (Antwerp).
- July 2008 – November 2014: designer for Marc Jacobs (New York).
- November 2014 – May 2018: responsible for the women's collection for Dries Van Noten.
- Mars 2020 : creator and brand director Meryll Rogge.
