Paris in chiaroscuro on the 3rd day of the parades with Jeanne Friot, Rick Owens, BlueMarble and 032c

Paris Men's Men's Male Week dedicated to the Collections of Fall-Winter 2025/26 continues on forced march from one podium to another, despite a threatening gray sky. Thursday, on the third day of the parades, the creators shared between two very distinct veins. On the one hand, a fashion that is both dark and powerful conditioned by the times that run, with Jeanne Friot, Rick Owens and 032c. On the other, a warmer and cheerful style adopted by more optimistic brands. Like Bluemarble.

A space that could look like an industrial warehouse, such as those frequented for more than twenty years Rick Owens in Émilie Romagne (center Italy), more precisely around the town of Concordia, where its suppliers and factories are located. To create the atmosphere, a wall covered with blinding spots, a good dose of fog and the tube of David Bowie “Heroes” broadcast the box thoroughly. The public in semi-old starts and suddenly wakes up. The American designer can send the models.

Jurddling on their high platform boots, they are dressed in a flavors or mini boleros jackets, revealing their bare torso or fine mesh knitting that descend to the thighs, while the legs are protected by soft Long briefs of grandfathers in woolen jersey or by very flared pants.

As always, the slender silhouette seems to stretch endlessly. Printing accentuated by the fringed edges of certain pants that burst under the knee in a large triangle like a rooster's paw, with leather straps similar to feathers.

The man Rick Owens readily mixes outdoor pieces with a more cozy loungewear universe, via short sectors, knitting bodies, ultra-fine tank tops with large and plunging necklines. As a pendant, he parades with a very chic luggage label in cow hair, nod to the collaboration signed between the house and Rimowa.

Pants, anoraks, tops, etc. Unveil textured and intriguing surfaces, objects of different treatments and research in materials, always with an ecological approach.

Jeanne Friot strikes hard! The queer stylist known for her eco-durable and inclusive commitments paraded under the Alexandre III bridge, where her famous cavalier in boots of the seven leagues had arisen from the Seine, this summer, during the opening ceremony of the Games Olympic, bringing it unprecedented popularity.

For the fall-winter 2025/26, the designer starts from the character of Joan of Arc, whom she reinterprets through various silhouettes gender fluidwhere its breadcrumbs made with belts of belts, play the stars, as well as the theme of armor, both protective and defensive, transposed in its daily locker room. Apart from a few models in cottage of meshes, the majority of the parts are completely portable, which does not detract from their character, such as the denim jacket declined in silver, in imitation skai fabric or in a lady -like matt down down, Associated with a choice with a Bermuda, a mini skirt or matching boots.

The designer returns to her original identity both in the palette, red, black and silver, which made it known, as well as through many signature pieces. Like the ostrich feathered jeans, redesigned this season via a collaboration with Levi's, or the bras, skirts and dresses entirely composed of recycled belts. The loop belts are also included in prints on dresses and tight combinations or used to close maxi coats and jackets, including the classic black jacket in the evening thus revitalized.

A crazy energy travels this powerful collection, where the black and white neo-punk tartan pattern is distinguished, developed exclusively for the designer, which is found in tone-on-tone tie shirts, jackets and portfolio-plaid skirts. In the register black and whitethere is also this skirt tailor cut in a goose's paw wool fabric.

“I came back to DNA and the basics of the brand while redeveloping them. The forms are very structured and supported. These are clothes that we wear like armor,” sums up Jeanne Friot who, despite the success and The maturity of its proposals is still confined to the presentations calendar.

See the parade

For its second Paris fashion week fashion show, the Berlin brand 032C attracted the crowd with a collection oscillating between a Dark style and a more bourgeois cloakroom. Launched in 2016 by the eponymous Berlin magazine, this brand streetwear Luxury ready-to-wear for men and women has attracted an audience extended in recent years with its style that is both minimal and contemporary.

Its artistic director, Maria Koch, alternates total very dark looks with latex gloves and vinyl thigh boots. From a distance, the handmade pocket of the models extended by leather straps looks like a whisk. Jackets, pants and short -sleeved shirts are available in all leather. The wardrobe also provides large anoraks, suede sets and gabardine jackets. Always in black with military khaki incursions.

The whole is softened by pastel elements, such as coats in wool or pale pink felt accompanied by a matching or such as this mint green belt, which breaks a black look. Unexpected white margueres grow on a black mohair sweater, while these ladies wander in tights and black panties barred with a double belt.

See the parade

Change of register at Bluemarble, where Anthony Alvarez receives us at tea time, with tables full of cakes, pancakes and other treats. The designer of Franco-Philippine origin born in the United States immerses us in the warm atmosphere of his childhood snacks shared with his parents, grandparents and great-grandparents in the Yvelines countryside, at Feucherolles, where He grew up from 8 to 17 years old.

The designer abandons the Instagrammable excesses of the last seasons to focus on a more cozy and daily wardrobe, designed to wander both in the woods and on macadam, without sacrificing work on materials, cuts and details. Colorful windbreaks (turquoise, red) slip under thick coats with large reverse of bright colors.

Singles with torsades knitted in hot wools reveal the elbows of intars intars as if they were worn or holes. They are surmounted by thick color heaters decorated with thin fringes with pearls and baguettes like old lampshades. The eras collide in this collection, between current style and memories of the past, not without a certain nostalgia. Like these patterns on t-shirts like erased by time or these retro embroidered patches, city badges, inviting themselves to hoodies and jeans. “My mother was curious about everything. We went on an adventure to meet people, bringing back the magnets of each city visited,” recalls Anthony Alvarez.

Everything breathes comfort. As in these stitches tied in drapes on the shoulders, these large sheep's jackets in dapper colors, these pants entered in the Camargue boots in suede skin, its puffy tracks decorated with lace patterns and these large plaids dotted with crystals in which S ' Emmot warmly.