Ajaccio, world capital of the Christian Faith!
The visit to the island this Sunday, December 15, of the Sovereign Pontiff aroused unprecedented fervor, jubilation and enthusiasm! Practicing believers or not, curious and skeptical, there were more than 100,000 to celebrate, with joy, this unforgettable day which will remain forever engraved in the hearts of the Corsicans…
It's difficult, to tell the truth, to put into words what we experienced this Sunday, December 15 in the Imperial City. In fact, there is what we imagined and what we witnessed. From 6 a.m. to 9 p.m., where Ajaccio had been cut off from the rest of the world, an intergenerational communion was celebrated wherever the Sovereign Pontiff passed. For the occasion, they came from the four corners of the island and the diaspora. By car, by plane (Air Corsica had chartered several flights with preferential rates) or by boat, Corsica Ferry having specially made three of its vessels available. “I came from Bastia by boat with my father, explains Oliva (8 years old), I am a member of the Santa Maria Maddalena di Bunifaziu brotherhood. It was truly magical to come here and see the Pope…”
The oldest of the Imperial City (108 years old) greeted by the Sovereign Pontiff
A feeling shared by everyone, traders, firefighters, simple faithful, elected officials already on the way, there were a few hundred, from 7 a.m. to walk the affordable streets of the Imperial City in order to stop at the various stops planned on the route of the Sovereign Pontiff. As soon as he arrived on the tarmac of Napoléon Bonaparte airport, he was greeted with rounds of applause and the sound of the cetera and pivana from the Caramusa group. Music will be omnipresent throughout this sunny day, polyphonies, a cappella monody, organ, school choirs, a scola di cantu. And, as if the tumultuous weather of recent days, also suspended its flight, a cloudless sky from sunrise to sunset… First highlight, the stop in front of the paleo-Christian baptistery of the Alban site. A religious choice, certainly, but above all pious and social in the heart of a working-class neighborhood. And we measure what popular piety represents for Pope Francis, who, let us remember, had declined the invitation of the Head of State, a week earlier for the inauguration of the Notre Dame Church. Blessed children, parents moved to tears, the oldest of the Imperial City (108 years old) personally greeted by the Sovereign Pontiff.
A highlight which set the pace for a day marked by popular fervor. A few minutes later, Pope Francis accompanied by Cardinal Bustillo entered the auditorium of the Palais des Congrès to close the conference on popular piety in the Mediterranean that had begun the day before at the Campo del Oro hotel. An event attended by nearly 250 people from the South of France, Sicily, Sardinia, Italy and Corsica.
Bishops, deacons, priests and colleagues talking about bonds to be forged together. It was these links that were discussed in closing at the Palais des Congrès, with the Sovereign Pontiff specifying that “Popular piety symbolizes faith and the presence of God in our hearts…” and even arguing around Pascal: “Do not seek the proofs of the existence of God intellectually but find and follow those steps which lead us towards him. In the street, you were all gathered together, practicing with fervor, not very practicing or curious. Let us rediscover, together, this unity which binds peoples…As for Corsica, it remains present in Rome, if only through Cardinal Mamberti, who is originally from the island. »
In the room, brothers, sisters and mayors, all come to pay homage to Pope Francis. “It’s a great moment, underlines Jean-Pierre Giordani, mayor of u Salge, this meeting with history should not be missed for anything in the world. I had to be there as mayor for my community, to make it proud. We are secular and all elected representatives of the Republic. But also elected representatives of the Christian people of Corsica. »
“Secularism” in Corsican usage: a specificity
A way of highlighting island specificity, undoubtedly unique on the Old Continent. That of an island where secularism and the spiritual walk hand in hand, where elected officials are present at all the most important religious celebrations, where Assembly sessions are shortened to attend and participate in Good Friday, where crèches are set up in all municipalities during the Christmas holidays.
Pope Francis will of course have become aware of this particularity, especially having stopped in front of the statue of Madunuccia, Place Foch, in the presence of the mayor of Ajaccio, many elected officials and to the sound of municipal music. “An exceptional moment and I even wonder if it is real, underlines Charly Voglimacci, deputy, a moment of intense emotion. I didn't think we could one day experience such an event. The Pope took the time, shook hands, blessed and kissed children. Without forgetting this stop in front of Madunuccia, patron saint of the City. We couldn't have dreamed of better. »
After a mass in front of the clergy and the Angelus celebrated in the completely renovated cathedral, and an outing punctuated by “allegria” sung by a scola di cantu and “terra nostra”, the Pope went to the bishopric for a lunch and a time of rest. Previously, and in front of tearful parents, he blessed children, offering them candy and a rosary to each. A man of faith but above all a man of the people, at his most noble. And then, another highlight, the thousands of faithful who had not been able to access the Casone mass, were gathered at Place Miot where they received the Eucharist given by the confreres. Always with joy as a common thread. “This is the first time that I have met the Holy Father so closely, explains Raphaël Moretti, colleague in the Niolu, it is an exceptional event and it represents the recognition of micro-regions, for us who work all year round for these places prey to desertification. As for giving communion on the day of the Pope's visit to Corsica, it is something unimaginable. »
An intense emotion
A jubilation which, as we can see, touched the depths of all those present, whatever their age, situation or even their faith. And then, what could be better, finally, than the Casone, at the feet of the statue of the Emperor, to celebrate mass in front of nearly 9,000 faithful, standing for an hour and a half and most of whom were present from the opening of the grills at 11.00 and even well before. “We left Bastia at 3 a.m., specifies this faithful, as a family since there were six of us in total. We had breakfast on the Cours Napoléon before going up to the Casone for a magical moment which united, we felt, all the people present and even well beyond, those who were able to attend to the celebration on the giant screens placed throughout the city and in certain churches. »
“Corsica open to the universality of the church”
A mass sung by several groups and/or brotherhoods in the presence of priests, deacons, altar servers and pink, symbol of joy, worn by the celebrants on this third Sunday of Advent. All punctuated by a Diu Vi Salvi Regina full of great emotion. “This day, underlines Abbot Constant, vicar general, it is the pride of Corsica. The Pope underlined this in his homily “I feel at home”. Corsica was a large open house to welcome Peter's successor, Papa Francescu. Some came from far away on the island to hear his words. It's a Thanksgiving. Corsica opened to the universality of the church through the simplicity of Pope Francis. »
A spiritual renewal in Corsica?
A feeling shared by our bishop, His Eminence Cardinal Bustillo at the end of this day. “A historic day, a moment of anointing, joy and hope for all, an expectation. I saw people's faces full of collective jubilation. The faithful from Ajaccio, Corsica and elsewhere were happy to experience this unique moment. »
The Sovereign Pontiff completed his trip after, as required by protocol, an interview with the Head of State. A few days have passed since this historic visit. The fervor can still be seen on faces. As proof, Cardinal Bustillo and Father Constant are regularly accosted in the street, testifying to this jubilation always present in the hearts of Corsicans. What will happen next? “We were not in a liturgical comedy, assures Cardinal Bustillo, we are facing a church which reaches out to its faithful and is not limited to celebrations alone. The Pope launched a message of love and peace. We are in the very essence of the Gospel. This trace, which has touched all beings, is indelible. »
Let us bet, through the numerous testimonies of curious people, agnostics or non-believers, all touched by the humanist speech of the Sovereign Pontiff (empathy to be given to our neighbor, kindness towards children and the elderly), ” an exceptional voice that rises in a world that is sinking into incomprehension, war, social contempt and racism” we heard this Sunday from anonymous people, that this December 15 2024 will mark a new spiritual era, at least for Corsica. An island which, as we see, amazes the world when it knows how to bring together the values that are dear to it.
The 70 brotherhoods in working order
All the brotherhoods of the island were present on the occasion of the papal visit. A great moment of faith and above all particularities which touched the Holy Father.
Of the approximately 3,000 confreres on the island, gathered around 70 to 80 structures, more than half of them – all active – were present for the coming of the Sovereign Pontiff. Some in the morning near the airport tarmac, others at the San Ghjuvà baptistery, at the auditorium of the Palais des Congrès, at Ajaccio cathedral, the Madunuccia. Everyone then met at the Casone for mass. “A day of unprecedented faith and fervor, underlines François-Aimé Arrighi, deacon and colleague in the canton of Dui Sorru, there is a revival of the brotherhoods on the island, and this visit will give us all an additional boost. »
It is, in this respect, important to note that the “Bustillo effect” undoubtedly brings a plus to the religious level on the island. Twelve brotherhoods have been created or relaunched on the island since the arrival of the Cardinal (four in Corsica-du-Sud and eight in Haute-Corse), others are in preparation for 2025. Most of them in rural areas. Furthermore, we also note an increase in catechumens (151 in 2024, or 200 more than in 2021) and confirmations. Deacons, many of whom come from brotherhoods, are also on the rise (around forty on the entire island). Finally, six seminarians and one in the foundation year are in the process of becoming a priest. A momentum which should be increased by the visit of Pope Francis.
Philippe Peraut
Photo credits: Alessandro Sardo Vatican Communications Service
