Cannes: Jean Imbert’s Palme d’Or | Gilles Pudlowski’s blog

Jean Imbert in the kitchen © DR

Head to the Croisette where our Riviera correspondent, Jean-François Gourdon, gives in to the charms of the new Palme d’Or by Jean Imbert. We listen to him.

Decor © JFG

The Palme d’Or at Cannes? Jean Imbert won it, and how could it be otherwise for someone who is as seductive in front of a camera as he is behind a stove? From Paris (at the Plaza Athénée, at the Cour Jardin, at Monsieur Dior) to Saint-Barth at the Cheval Blanc, via the gourmet mischief of the Orient-Express, without forgetting more recently the Brando in Polynesia, Jean-Imbert is everywhere but always with brilliance, watching over every detail, thinking of every dish, refining each menu like a new concept. With art and style, he signs here, on the fringes of the Cannes festival, the event of the moment by brilliantly taking over from Christian Sinicropi in a completely redesigned setting.

Amuse bouche © JFG

In terms of staging, the restoration of the Palme d’Or is simply stunning. Located on the first floor of the Martinez hotel, we are first fascinated by a large porthole which reveals the kitchens, a real “engine room” of this luxurious mahogany yacht located on the Quai de la Croisette. For the lively Jean Imbert, the Palme d’Or is a total immersion in the scintillating world of cinema. And it is true that the scenario is well put together, from the original decors (often from the Chef’s private collection) to the palm-shaped appetizers or the menus illustrated like a script, we quickly feel like the actor privileged of an evening which turns out to be exceptional.

Gamberoni from the Gulf of Genoa © JFG

In terms of cuisine, we head for the Grande Bleue, which is facing us and which delivers its best roles with its gamberoni from the Gulf of Genoa, rolled in a fine jelly and cleverly decorated with marigold flowers. And the rest is enchanting with the fillets of red mullet marinated in coarse salt and flame-roasted, just accompanied by a citrus rouille and mustard ice cream, a magnificent capon roasted whole in the oven presented at the table or even a tasty tuna belly, sweet and salty, where a colorful tabbouleh of preserved lemon, mint and coriander is invited.

Capon © JFG

Intelligently proposed by sommelier Dominique Vion, the choice of wines is in keeping with the Clos Sainte Magdeleine, the fruity white cassis of the Sack-Zafiropulo will reveal a slight Mediterranean saltiness, playing the perfectly matched accompaniments without however weighing down the bill. Loïc Voron, the pastry chef will finish the parade with a lemon, from Menton of course, frosted with six citrus fruits and available in raw, candied and iced versions, which seduces without fuss. A ban for this new star of the Croisette.

Frosted Lemon © JFG