Paris 6th: The Italy of Cherche-Midi | Gilles Pudlowski’s blog

Return to Cherche-Midi for our accomplice Benjamin Berline following in the footsteps of the best of Italy in Paris. We listen to him.

The decor © BB

The joys of a sincere, laughing and eminently gourmet Italy? They are always picked on the Left Bank in this charming trattoria that looks like a neighborhood bistro where the best people of Paris have flocked since 1978 in search of transalpine flavors that don’t cheat. Tablecloths, opaline tables, a thick wooden counter patinated by time, without forgetting the peaceful terrace – where a place is won with great struggle in fine weather – make up the sober but full of cheerfulness of this institution which has been in existence for almost half a year. -century by the Di Meo, brother and sister. Originally from Molise, Nello and Lydie have, year after year, known how to shape their sparkling Parisian-Italian enclave, borrowing from Parmesan, Roman and Piedmontese delicacies, and finding favor with a public mixing gallery owners, publishers, politicians and the dynasty. Poilâne always faithful to the place in the person of Apollonia.

Plate of Parma ham © BB

The recipe for success ? Handpicked products, charcuterie to die for (the finer you die), exquisite pasta woven day by day in the slim kitchen in the back room and this chic and happy relaxation instilled by an Italian team who knows how to entertain with the art and the way. With the blessing of the house’s ritual olive foccacia, the tone is set with the crunchy zucchini flower fritters, the delicate mortadella available in both truffled and pistachio versions without forgetting this pearl of Parma ham, matured for 30 months and melting with insolence on the palate. But the refreshing buffalo mozzarella enthroned on its tomato coulis or the farandole of homemade antipasti also have their say, marrying without flinching a perfect aperol Spritz or one of the many “shake” cocktails here with skill.

Zucchini flower fritters © BB

As we get down to business, the words of Da Vinci come back to us: “simplicity is the supreme sophistication”. Undeniably fresh and renewed according to inspiration and the seasons, the pasta register triumphs here brilliantly. Spaghetti with bottarga play a mischievous nod to Bené Roma while their naughty cousins with pecorino and guanciale and fettuccine with truffles complete the taste of dolce vita. But for carnivorous desires roaring outside the range of primi, the now classic carpaccio of beef fillet with olive oil, lemon, arugula and parmesan or the beautiful escalope of milk-fed veal with butter and sage are moments of choice .

Spaghetti pecorino guanciale © BB

Hats off to the service, both cheerful and on point, led by Alessandro Fiot, waltzing with skill and a word for everyone between the terrace and the lively room. But another good point deserves to adorn the menu of liquids which skilfully navigates between all the vineyards of La Botte, offering a series of bargains at measured prices such as this suave Barbera d’Asti by Cossetti or this jewel of Montepulciano by Ruffino revealing its distinguished notes of candied morello cherries.

Alessandro Fiot serving © BB

Finally, what can we say about the irresistible sweets combining chocolate cream, panna cotta to leave you blissful and of course this jewel of tiramisu with a firm and soft biscuit to accompany a grappa of which the house has the secret. No need to look from noon to two p.m., the good taste of Italy can always be found on rue du Cherche-Midi.