Fashion Week is an essential stage for major fashion houses, but also a springboard for young designers in search of recognition. Yet access to this event remains a colossal challenge. Faced with economic challenges, market saturation and a questioning of industry practices, certain creators choose to stand out through their singularity.
An event that is always unmissable
Paris Fashion Week remains an event that designers, big or small, cannot miss. Thanks to its international dimension, it attracts thousands of professionals, buyers and journalists every year. According to a study by the French Fashion Institute, it generates more than 10 billion euros in annual commercial transactions and 1.2 billion euros in indirect benefits.
However, for young creators, accessing this event remains a colossal challenge. “Fashion Week is both a must and a colossal challenge. For the big houses, it’s a well-oiled machine, but for us, young creators, it’s an opportunity to prove that we can create memorable experiences with few resources,” explains Swoosh, artistic director of Bleu Désir.
For Franck Delpal, expert in fashion economics at ISM Paris, Fashion Week remains essential: “It is the balance between big names and the innovative visions of young designers that makes Paris Fashion Week unique. . Even if international opportunities are less dynamic than before, the event remains of major interest for emerging talents. »
Stand out in a sea of giants
Faced with luxury houses which invest colossal budgets – a fashion show can cost between 500,000 and 5 million euros – young designers must redouble their creativity to attract attention. “I know we can’t compete with the big brands. But my goal is not to compete with them, it is to show that we can offer a unique experience with limited means,” explains Swoosh.
During his last fashion show, he made an impression by equipping the first row with virtual reality headsets. “I wanted to question the notion of exclusivity, so central in fashion. The people in the front row, those who we always imagine to be in the best position, found themselves deprived of the inaugural passage of the models,” he adds.
-This quest for uniqueness, essential to capturing attention, is accompanied by complex challenges. “The notion of performance has always been at the heart of emerging creators. But the equation is complicated: with few resources, we must maximize the impact, and this involves thinking about new shows that connect fashion with other fields of creativity,” explains Franck Delpal. Florian, from the PR YOU agency (specializing in supporting emerging brands, such as Bleu Désir), confirms: “The direct economic benefits are often weak, but the impact in terms of image is crucial. »
An industry to reinvent
For emerging talents, access to this international showcase remains a Herculean challenge. “It’s quite complicated because producing ethically and sustainably costs more, but for me it’s important. I want to show that we can do very beautiful things with little means,” explains Swoosh. His brand relies on recycled materials, such as leather scraps, a choice which reflects environmental awareness but complicates the production processes. He insists on the importance of not giving in to compromises: “I want to continue to produce responsibly, even if it is more complicated and more expensive. Creating from what already exists is obvious to me. »
For Franck Delpal, young creators who choose to link creativity and societal demands strengthen their visibility: “Creativity and singularity have been associated with strong demands, by adding social and societal questions. This is one more argument to reinforce the perception of their approach. In recent years, we have seen young creators go down this path. This can create a stronger marker and increase the chances of being audible. »
Going beyond the framework of Fashion Week therefore remains a risky bet for young designers. As Franck Delpal points out: “The advantage is that buyers and the press are available. But the disadvantage is that you become one among hundreds. » Some who tried to leave the official calendar ended up returning: “Going it alone can work, but not if everyone does it. »
If Fashion Week remains an essential stage, young designers must seek to stamp their singularity there by questioning a system that is sometimes fixed and opaque.
