Turin is not just a beautiful city: it is also a home for foodies, a base camp for traveling by train over its hills to discover its gastronomy.
Don’t take a car in Turin, you risk entering the ZTL (limited traffic zone) and receiving a hefty fine! Spotted by the cameras, many French people on vacation have the bitter experience. Better to take advantage of the extensive public transport network, with its elegant trams, metro and buses that run night and day. Without giving up exploring the surroundings, thanks to the train lines to the countryside, where the great wines, cheeses and gourmet products that adorn the city’s tables come from. Whether you have a small budget, a phobia of driving or the desire to reduce your carbon footprint, the train allows you to venture into the hills, home of slow food.
On the market in Turin
On one of the corners of the center of Turin, not far from the Giardini Reali, Piazza Repubblica is covered every day with colorful hangings. This is where the Porta Palazzo market is held, a little over 50,000 m² dedicated to the sale of products, mainly food. Don’t look for the gate, it no longer exists since Napoleon dismantled the ramparts that once surrounded Turin. Instead, two buildings, one modern and the other old, are overflowing with street food stalls or counters laden with cheese.
Our gourmet wandering begins here, between the stallsa sonorous and evocative word that is translated into French as stalls. In this square, one could travel around the world like that of Piedmont, as the specialties of varied origins coexist. To stay local, bite into a panino with toma or robiola, local cheeses, unless you try the famous tail wetanchovy sauce for dipping raw vegetables. Save a place for one bicierina local drink made with coffee, thick hot chocolate and milk cream. An appetizer which serves as a prelude to the discovery of the surrounding terroir.
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A university of gastronomic sciences
Leaving the city for the countryside, the train gently approaches the Langhe, a historic and wine-growing region, much of it listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. First stop, Brathe village where the slow-food movement was born, whose mission was to protect products and know-how threatened by globalization. There Bra sausagea veal and pork sausage that is eaten raw or cooked, is one of them. After a tour of the pretty center, we rent a bike to pedal up to Pollenzo5km from the center, where the University of Gastronomic Sciences is located. In the old castle, the Banca del Vino stores precious labels from all over the world, and offers tours and tastings (in English or Italian, by reservation).
About twenty minutes by train separate Bra fromAlba. Yet something has already changed: here, the mountain air is charged with a scent of hazelnut, or even white truffle, depending on the season. With our noses in the air, we observe its ancient towers, then, underground, we survey the remains of the ancient Roman city. Last step, Astiless than an hour by train. The red brick citadel stands in the heart of an undulating wine landscape. Logically, the product to taste here is wine: Spumante d’Asti, bubbles from Moscato, goes wonderfully with hazelnut or almond desserts.
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Practical notebook
Namely
To reach Bra and Alba, take the sfm4 line, operated by Trenitalia. Allow 1h12 and €6.90 for Alba, 48 min and €5.60 for Bra. Asti is on the sfm6 line (55 min, €6.30). There is also a charming line, open only during historical events, connecting Alba to Nizza Monferrato. Calendar available on fondazionefs.it.
Our addresses in Turin and surrounding areas
Bistrot in Langa
On the central market, Piedmontese cuisine to be enjoyed on a few perched tables: ravioli del plin (in roasted meat sauce), the famous vitel tonato (veal and tuna sauce)…
Piazza della Repubblica, 25, Turin. The Mercato Centrale addresses do not have telephone numbers!
Caffè Turin
For a retro bicierin in one of the city’s historic cafés. Chic!
Piazza San Carlo, 204, Turin. Tel. +39 011545118
caffetorino1903.it/
Osteria Boccondivino
In the courtyard of the headquarters of the Slow Food association, this osteria has classic elegance, a beautiful garden, and a selection of products of incredible quality. Taste the cut 40 egg yolkspasta with “forty” egg yolks in sauce Bra sausageaccompanied by very good wines from the cellar.
Via Mendicità Istruita, 14, Bra
Such. : +39 0172425674
osteriadellarco.it/
Lalibera
For more than ten years, chef Flavia Boffa’s table has been offering Piedmontese cuisine made with exceptional products: Alba truffle, hazelnuts, cheeses from small producers… to be reserved.
Via Elvio Pertinacce, 24, Alba
Such. : +39 0173293155
lalibera.com/
Alta Langa Agricultural Company
We stop by this shop to stock up on hazelnut cream or roasted hazelnuts – all organic. From the back room, an inimitable scent escapes: everything is made on site.
Corso Italia, 5, Alba
Such. : +39 0173262221
altalangaaziendaagricola.it/
Casa Dirce
A real welcoming “house” where you can feel the experience of the chefs and the tradition of the Asti region, notably with a famous rabbit “à l’Arneis”, a local white wine.
Via Guttuari, 12
Such. : +39 3274603287
