Nests as far as the eye can see. In Plounéour-Ménez, at the foot of the Monts d'Arrée, the breeding of Fabien and Mickaël Boga is unique, among the hundred or so French farms dedicated to the production of squabs. Sheltered in aviaries each shared by 36 pairs, the pigeons incubate their nests when they are not feeding their young.
“This is the particularity of this breeding method which cannot be industrialized,” explains Fabien Boga. With its 8,000 couples, the farm created by their parents has retained its artisanal dimension. Every day, between the eight small buildings and the slaughtering workshop which make it unique, there are seven of them sharing their time between breeding and preparing the young pigeons intended, in the vast majority of cases, for restaurant tables. starry.
Singapore, London, Carantec…
This direct link between culinary tradition and breeding, the two brothers have developed it since the integration of the slaughtering activity, in 2011. It was strengthened two years ago, rewinds Fabien Boga: “We do not We did not stop working with an intermediary in Rungis, but we then wanted to get closer to the chefs. »
So, every week, 1,800 to 2,500 “incredibly tender” pigeons fly to some of the most prestigious restaurants in the Michelin guide, such as the kitchens of Odette, Julien Royer's three-star restaurant in Singapore. But also to Hong Kong, Thailand, Sweden and even Connaught, Hélène Darroze's three-star hotel in London.
The exceptional squabs are also prepared by Breton chefs Nicolas Carro, Jérémie Le Calvez and Nolwenn Corre. “99% of our production is now marketed for Michelin-starred restaurants,” says the breeder.
Fed with chestnut flour
The fruit of “a rise in quality” whose steps are climbed, year after year. For almost ten years, the two breeders have been working to improve the pigeons' diet. A blend of cleaned corn kernels, probiotics and essential oils intended to avoid the use of antibiotics. Since the construction of a new building, some of the squabs also benefit from chestnut flour. Their flesh is highly prized.
Fabien and Mickaël Boga are already thinking about the continued modernization of breeding as part of an improvement in animal welfare. The threat of avian flu will lead to buildings being closed: air filtration, controlled ventilation, windows and showers on demand should meet the needs of pigeons. Breeders recently valued in terrines, after three and a half years of incubating and feeding. The first recipe for Pigeonneau des gourmets, concocted by chef Nicolas Carro, has just been produced and sold in delicatessens.
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