It stands out for its red color: the garnet from Perpignan in the Pyrénées-Orientales has been protected since 2018 by a unique geographical designation in France. Although today the stones no longer come from France, the know-how has been passed down with passion for several centuries by garnet jewelers.
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A treasure is hidden on Virginie Mezerette’s land. The manager of the Château de Caladroy in Bélesta (Pyrénées-Orientales) discovered a precious gem in her stones, a fine stone: “We just have to reach out, she explains. And we find garnets on certain stones. We can guess the red color, despite the oxidation.
In recent years, garnet has resurfaced in the department’s soils. In the past, it was able to inspire jewelers in the region and give birth to Perpignan garnet: an artisanal jewel, the manufacture of which is so unique that it is not taught in jewelry schools.
The stones around the castle of Belesta (Pyrénées-Orientales) contain garnet.
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© Perrine Aubert / FTV
Catherine Calvet, jeweler in Prades (Pyrénées-Orientales) sells garnet rings, pendants, necklaces and bracelets. Since 2018, the appellation has been protected by a geographical indication (GI), which constitutes valuable recognition for this family institution of garnet makers.
Perpignan garnet has been used to create rings, bracelets or necklaces for several centuries.
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© Perrine Aubert / FTV
“It allows you to make yourself known, assures the jeweler. There will be a snowball effect. The more there are, the more people will look for this quality.” At the Calvet jewelry store, know-how has been passed down for two centuries. Because to obtain the GI, the assembly of the jewelry is the only criterion. You must surround the stone with a thin strip of 18-carat gold, the setting, which adorns the garnet.
Because the gems, in truth, come mainly from Mali. “In the 19th century the stones no longer came from the region, assures Jean-Michel Calvet, garnet maker at the Calvet jewelry store. So it’s not new. GIs protect know-how and not the materials used.”
Perpignan garnet is protected by a geographical indication (GI).
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© Perrine Aubert / FTV
Another specificity: to bring out the brilliance of the garnet, jewelers use a paillon, a small sheet which allows the light to be reflected behind the stone. Today, know-how is perpetuated by only around ten manufacturers in the region, hence the sometimes high selling price. Perpignan garnet is sold between 200 and 3000 euros, for the most precious models.
Written with Marie Justet
