The fork stroke –
The Auberge de la Rippe regains its lucky star
With Michael Pihet in the kitchen, the Auberge de l’Etoile enchants with its dishes and decor that are warm, generous and beautiful.
The editorial staff
Published today at 11:02 a.m.
In La Rippe, the Auberge de l’Étoile comes back to life with Michael Pihet in the kitchen (left) and Adrien Maestro at the helm.
Marie-Lou Dumauthioz
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- The Auberge de l’Etoile in La Rippe has reopened after renovation.
- It was taken over by Adrien Maestro, with chef Michael Pihet in the kitchen.
- The establishment offers generous cuisine, in a lovely French bistro atmosphere. Emphasis is placed on wine, particularly Vaudois.
Obviously, in La Rippe, the reopening of the Auberge de l’Étoile was eagerly awaited. At the next table, a couple came to get an idea. Verdict: “We’ll come back!” It’s sincere, served with a smile and there’s nothing to complain about. A bit like the bistronomy of this very pretty address, which has just been reborn this month.
Seduced by the charming building from 1710, the owner Adrien Maestro has created a cozy atmosphere, full of antique furniture, grandmother’s crockery and vintage engravings. In the kitchen, chef Michael Pihet plays the part of gourmet and generous cuisine, simple while being perfectly executed. If the goal is to make you smile, it succeeds on both counts.
As a starter, the mimosa leek opens with a very pleasant surprise, enhanced with pickles and punctuated with cashew nuts (17 fr.). Quite discreetly marbled with cocoa and timut pepper, the duck foie gras is excellent (27 fr.). As the restaurant is also a bar, the plates to share are just as salivating, between Fribourgeois Vacherin gougères (14 fr.), homemade tarama (23 fr.) and other original ideas.
Honoring the brasserie decor, the dishes play on tradition, including lake pike dumplings (34 fr.). We note perfect cooking for the sweetbreads glazed with butter, roasted salsify, veal jus with whiskey (38 fr.). At the next table – always her – we applauded the marrow bone garnished with panko breadcrumbs (19 fr.), while other neighbors seemed delighted with a papet vaudois – obviously a little reinvented – and shells with ham on the bone.
For dessert, the classic mango pavlova is as beautiful as all the other dishes (14 fr.) and the pistachio tart, more unexpected, is garnished with a subtle mousse (13 fr.). As for wines, the Pays de Vaud and France are in the spotlight, and Adrien Maestro happily shows off his cellar, which, it seems, contains treasures that are not on the map. We’ll come back.
“Gastronomy & Terroirs”
“24 Heures” has always followed the gastronomic and culinary news of the canton. Receive, every Friday, a selection of articles on catering, cooking, local products and wine.
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