Restaurant review | At Buvette Beaubien, it’s not complicated

Rising stars in the restaurant industry, institutions that stand the test of time, hidden gems… Our critics dig in and help you make informed choices. This week, we’re sitting down at a real neighborhood bar, Buvette Beaubien.

Updated at 11:00 a.m.

First there was Épicerie Soda, a café and neighborhood grocery store opened in 2020, rue Beaubien. “The pandemic almost killed us,” summarizes Dominique Goupil, one of the owners. After some trial and error, the place found its true vocation by becoming Buvette Beaubien, in 2022.

Two years and dust later, I notice that “BB” has made its place in the La Petite-Patrie district, when I go there on a Tuesday evening in early October which still (almost) has the air of summer. The pretty, intimate terrace, an oasis of greenery, is lively, just like the interior; students, couples, groups of friends of varying ages make up a clientele which, without being heterogeneous, is quite diverse.

PHOTO SARAH MONGEAU-BIRKETT, THE PRESS
Aperitif time: buffalo mozzarella with candied tomatoes and curried roasted cauliflower, mixed aperitif plate, white anchovies (anchovy) and ratatouille
PHOTO SARAH MONGEAU-BIRKETT, THE PRESS
The wine list makes you thirsty. Maxime Tremblay, co-owner, and Alix Bourbonnais take care of the selection, in private import.
PHOTO SARAH MONGEAU-BIRKETT, THE PRESS
Beef tartare, the most classic!
PHOTO SARAH MONGEAU-BIRKETT, THE PRESS
Mushroom, celeriac and cheddar ravioli
PHOTO SARAH MONGEAU-BIRKETT, THE PRESS
The mixed aperitif plate is offered from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. only.
PHOTO SARAH MONGEAU-BIRKETT, THE PRESS
You can also leave with a bottle in wine merchant mode.

1/6

I complete the picture with my son, who really wants to order small sardines in olive oil from Conservas (!). I would have rather opted for the white anchovy (anchovy) and ratatouille, but what the child wants… It must be said that they are very plump and tender, these pretty sardines, which are served simply with a small rocket salad, cucumbers marinated in turmeric and baguette bread. Lightly toasted and oiled bread also accompanies the buffalo mozzarella, served with candied tomatoes and curried grilled cauliflower.

I missed the aperitif hour (between 4 p.m. and 6 p.m.), but I certainly wouldn’t have said no to the mixed aperitif plate offered at that time: hummus, crunchy or marinated vegetables, olives, etc. ., make up the whole. I console myself by sipping a glass of Javali, a rosé pet nat (quite dark) from Portugal, aromatic and charming, while my son continues with his choices fancya tangy “Tropical Flower” non-alcoholic cocktail with its mixture of pineapple, orange, lemon and orange blossom juice.

PHOTO SARAH MONGEAU-BIRKETT, THE PRESS
Warm with its brick walls and wood accents, the dining room stretches towards the back, with its long bar.
PHOTO SARAH MONGEAU-BIRKETT, THE PRESS
Plants adorn the window of the Buvette Beaubien restaurant, opened in May 2022.
PHOTO SARAH MONGEAU-BIRKETT, THE PRESS
Gaël Robitaille (loyal employee), co-owners Maxime Tremblay, Martin Lamirande and Dominique Goupil, Alix Bourbonnais (loyal employee), chef Romuald Talibart and Ève Ravard, in the kitchen

1/3

The watchword of the place: simplicity. The dishes are delicious and hearty, the flavors are there, even if a little more work on the tastes could certainly take them further. But the owners focus more on conviviality than refinement, and it works well. The menu mainly offers classics mixing French, Italian and Spanish influences – homemade gravlax, strip steak of beef with chimichurri, meat polpettes, garlic shrimp and chorizo, etc. – but there are also more personal creations.

Two beautiful examples arise before us. Classic side: a beef tartare with its usual accompaniments – capers, gray shallots, Dijon mustard – crowned with a large capron (my favorite). It’s seasoned correctly, but I would have liked a little more punch and a spicier side, and it’s served with essentially the same greens as the sardine starter – a little variety would have been welcome.

Inventive side: mushroom ravioli, celeriac and cheddar. “Ravioles” are actually dumpling squares, used in a layered lasagna style. The taste of celeriac, pureed, is subtle. The whole thing is dripping with cheese. It’s comforting and very rich. Son loves it, but doesn’t finish his plate. I’m trying to help him, but I’m also pretty full!

We’ll skip dessert this time, but I promise to come back, if only to enjoy the warm atmosphere, a good wine and an aperitif board!

PHOTO SARAH MONGEAU-BIRKETT, THE PRESS
The private room is located at the back of the restaurant.

Prix

The mixed aperitif plate is $15, then you go from $10 (nuts and olives) to $15 (mozzarella), then around twenty dollars for more substantial dishes. Expect around $15 for a cocktail and most wines by the glass are under $15. At lunchtime, the “Chef’s Choice” formula (minimum of four people) is $30; there is also a meal salad for $16.